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Always leave at least one pipe joint at rear of composter unglued to allow moving the unit later without having to cut the pipe.
A straight vertical vent pipe up through peak of roof is always best.
When you are forced to install closer to eave (outside wall examples at right) it is better to run two 45 fittings inside attic and terminate closer to roof peak.
Always insulate exterior vent pipe anyway, but it does make for better venting efficiency to run two 45s inside your attic (or a chimney as per second example), where it is warmer.
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Always insulate the floor underneath - retaining heat inside the unit will help maintain efficiency of the composter.
If you install on a concrete floor, place a layer of foam insulation, or better yet, a 3x6 insulated 2by4 wood platform underneath to act as a thermal break.
Be sure to install the unit on a flat surface or slightly tilted towards the rear (never to the front) - up to 1/4 inch slope/drop.
Start the composting toilet bed with the enclosed peat moss mixture and topsoil.
A note on topsoil - it needs to be insect egg free.
Even if the topsoil is bagged and labeled insect free, we would recommend sealing the dirt in an airtight black plastic garbage bag, moistening the soil well and leaving it out in direct sunlight for a couple of days to bake (turning and shaking to mix).
As you use the composter, add one quarter to half cup of bulking material per bowel movement (enough to cover your feces).
Adding material regularily, so that the fecal matter layers in with the bulking material is key.
It allows the compost to "breathe", trapping air inside the pile.
Place a small wastebasket full of bulking material atop the unit to ensure it is regularly added.
"Good" compost can take at least a couple of weeks to get properly started - give it time to mature.
If the compost is way too moist (pudding), not enough bulking material is being added and oxygen can not penetrate the pile.
The compost may then go septic and have an offensive odor.
If this happens, add a gallon or more of planer shavings to help dry it out and get air back into pile.
Composting stops if the pile is allowed to dry out completely - you then need to add peat moss and warm water.
Compost accelerant "Microbe Mix" should be periodically added to ensure optimal composting.
Be certain to avoid getting accelerant product in your eyes and wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.
You can also add dry bread (not moldy) as the yeast culture also helps accelerate composting action.
The Sun-Mar provided Compost Sure bulking material is a mixture of sphagnum peat moss and hemp stalk.
You can make your own by combining pine planer shavings (sold as horse bedding at ranch supply stores) and sphagnum peat moss.
The typical ratio is 60/40 up to 80/20 pine planer shavings (not sawdust!) to spagnum peat moss.
Many clients use straight pine planer shavings, adding peat moss occasionally when the compost is too dry - peat will allow it to better retain more moisture.
As you switch to nearly full planer shavings, you are adding more bulk at the expense of less composting action.
We tend to prefer keeping the compost light and airy (more shavings) to reduce the possibility of the compost having an offensive septic odor (sodden compost).
You do end up removing finish compost more often, but it is a trade-off.
If the compost is "clumping" then you have added too much peat moss or maybe the planer shavings have a high sawdust content or perhaps you are not covering every bowel movement with bulking material.
Do not use any cedar, redwood or treated wood shavings that would harm the compost health.
If you should ever encounter a situation where the compost turns into "pudding" and develops a septic odor and nothing seems to dry it out, the screen in lower rear of compost drum is likely clogged.
Rotate the composter drum three turns so that it is upside down.
Allow it to sit like this for 24 hours and dry out the screen.
Remove the toilet bowl liner and shine a flashlight into the top rear - you will see the stainless steel screen.
This screen is what allows excess liquid to drain from compost down into the base of unit.
Under extremely poor operational situations, the screen can become caked with compost and get clogged.
After covering your arm with plastic wrap and while wearing gloves, you can reach into the unit and free the dried material on the screen.
An old hair brush with stiff bristles works best.
Force the bristles down through the screen to free the openings.
Let the material in the finishing drawer sit for at least a week and be totally dehydrated before removal and then immediately back-tumble another drawer full.
Keep the tumbler as full as possible for maximum moisture retention and to ensure carefree operation.
It is important to note that you should tumble the composter very well (many times) before back tumbling (quickly) into finishing drawer.
And then you let the material set in the finishing drawer until the next time you have to remove a load.
In that week or two of time, the material in the finishing drawer will completely dehydrate.
Check with local health codes, but finished compost can be added to an exterior compost pile (best), then later tilled into ornamental plantings.
Or simply thrown in the landfill or buried a foot underground.
Take proper health precautions when handling the finished compost (same rules apply to septic tanks) - avoid direct contact.
Tumble the compost no more than three times a week - rotate drum completely two or three full rotations.
Excessive tumbling will actually hinder the composting action by compacting the material and driving out air.
Be sure to leave the compost tumbler bin in the full upright position after tumbling.
Healthy composting toilet material is not an environment favorable to insect life - hot, active compost, being tumbled three times a week.
But, if you have small flies inside your home now, they will eventually find the composter later.
You have to rid the home of insects to ensure the composter can have a chance of being insect free.
Then, discourage insects from returning by spraying the air intake screen, under the seat, around the bowl and at the base.
A heavy rug thrown over the top of seat (cover whole toilet top) is a very effective tool to seal off.
Should you ever get a small fly infestation - kill them, if you want them gone.
A recent client commented that she had been spraying the inside for a month and they were "still leaving" every time she sprayed them.
While it is prudent to avoid spraying the compost itself with harsh insecticides, there must be enough insecticide left clinging to the outside of the barrel and inside of composter body to discourage those wishing to wander back in.
It is important to note that insects are not breeding in the compost itself - they are generally outside the drum, on the inside of the composter body.
Start by removing the toilet bowl and cleaning any material stuck to side of drum, then spray well.
You can try natural pyrethrins or step up to a more powerful aerosal spray and "bomb" the composter for a day or two.
Turn off the fan and wrap/seal all openings with saran wrap after spraying for best results.
After you stop the infestation, spray the air intake areas and under toilet seat with pesticide to discourage future visitors.
We suggest installing surge protectors on any electrical appliance - especially at sites remote from the power station and those running on generator power.
Preventing electrical power surges from reaching electronic devices is key in some areas.
All 120 volt AC composters have an electric fan for constant venting and a thermostat that controls the evaporation mat in base.
Always install the emergency overflow hose to a containment vault/tank or a leach pit / drywell, as per installation plans.
Even if the unit is capable of evaporating all liquid, you should always install an emergency overflow - you never know.
Units ship with one side of the overflow hose plugged - the other side open and ready to hook up.
The liquid in the bottom of the composter will dehydrate and/or go out the back of unit through the overflow hose.
There is no need to try to remove it.
If it is not evaporating, you likely have a skim-coat of oil atop the liquid preventing naturally evaporation.
You can squirt a healthy amount of liquid dish soap/detergent atop the liquid in base to break up the oil coat and get evaporation back on track.
You should also check to make sure the air intake vent grate(s) on bottom front of unit are clean.
Dust and debris can clog the air intakes, preventing cross draft from evaporating liquid properly.
When you remove the finish drawer material and find the base dry, it is a good time to rake out any debris.
Excess liquid amount in the base is another pro/con of using too much planer shavings for bulking material.
While light and fluffy, a heavy planer shavings mixture will allow the urine to pass through more readily.
Venting directions for the Sun-Mar composter follow the same basic rules as any powered vent: a straight vertical pipe up through roof is always best.
When you are forced to make bends, use two 45 degree fittings versus a single 90 degree bend whenever possible.
Terminate the vent pipe above peak of roof for best drafting.
If this requires bending vent with two 45 fittings inside attic, do so rather than have vent pipe exit lower on roof.
Of special importance is to insulate the pipe as it leaves heated room (attic and above roof line) the kit comes complete with a four foot section of foam (additional can be purchased at any home building supply store).
A nice touch is to cut a section of four inch pipe to cover the foam as it leaves the roof for protection against sun damage.
Should you install the vent properly and still experience compost odor in the restroom (poor drafting), a few Sun-Mars are equipped with a "gate" on the blower.
Remove the #2 square drive screws holding the blower on rear of unit and adjust the gate to zero/closed setting.
If the blower does not have a gate, you will notice that the fan terminates about 1/2 inch away from where it exits the back.
This opening is designed to circulate air inside cabinet for accelerating dehydration and can be duct taped closed to enhance venting.
A fuzzy toilet seat cover also helps maintain tight seal around the toilet seat and in a worst case scenario you can install an in-line booster fan.
Keep in mind that properly maintained compost will not have a "septic" odor ... if it does, start with fixing the compost health first.
Left click here or on chart below for a higher quality pdf spec sheet
* Family numbers include adults and small children ** Additional 12V 120 Watt evaporation heater avaiable as option
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These 17.6 ounce (500 gram) jars of Microbe Mix™ ship for free via US Priority Mail (no international orders) for $26 each.
Microbe Mix contains dried aerobic microbes and enzymes specially selected to help break down waste in Sun-Mar composting toilets.
This composting accelerant bacteria culture has citronella added to discourage attention from insects with a nice clean scent.
Add a 15ml scoop (included in jar) over the compost every couple of weeks just before rotating the drum.
The jar should last at least a year at that rate.
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$26* each
FREE mailing in USA
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Questions? Concerns? Price Matching? Email us at natural@colorado.net for quick answers
5% cash discount for payment with bank wire transfer, cashier's check or US Postal money order
Email or fax 720-293-1705 with name, address, phone and model number for a discounted invoice
Clivus Multrum central composting toilet systems
Clivus Multrum composting toilets aren't just for trailheads anymore.
With well over 50 years experience solving residential waste-treatment problems, they are the world's leading authority on composting toilets.
Residential or commercial, Clivus has a central composting toilet system to meet your needs.
If you are in the central Rocky Mountain region, we can handle your project.
Please email natural@colorado.net or call 800-563-9720 to start planning your composting toilet system now.
Clivus Multrum can be reached direct at 800-425-4887 for projects outside of the central Rockies.
The Clivus composting toilet system is simple, that's why it continues to work the best.
Aerobic bacteria converts all of the solid toilet matter into humus, while the urine slowly percolates through the compost (reaching the cleanout compartment as a stabilized, concentrated liquid fertilizer).
Yearly removal of humus from your Clivus may be necessary, but overall they are fairly maintenance-free (as compared to a smaller self-contained composter).
The key is in having such a large storage area for compost to decompose slowly and completely.
Clivus composters are power vented above roof line via a 4" pipe.
The waterless toilet fixture(s) is installed directly above the Clivus composter body.
A hole is cut between the floor joists so the toilet chute can extend down to it.
A smaller chute (not included) can be run from the kitchen to dispose of table scraps.
Please note that any and all central composting toilet systems require at least six feet of headroom in front of the unit for periodic maintenance such as raking and removal of finished compost.
If you don't have six feet of headroom in your basement or crawlspace, one alternative is a "basement storm door" such as the Bilco® access door with steps leading directly outside.
Always design for easy access to the composter and keep in mind that the larger the composter, the less periodic maintenance needed.
Consult your local Clivus representative for installation details and pricing.
We are the Rocky Mountain regional sales rep only - we do not retail Clivus in other parts of the country.
Clivus Multrum can be reached at 800-425-4887 in Lawrence, Mass. or through their website at: Clivus.com for pricing.
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Vent above roof line for best draft
Four inch insulated vent stack
Pint flush toilet for occassional use
Kitchen waste chute (not greywater)
Waterless toilet fixture for main use
In-line exhaust fan mounted to composter
Clivus® central composter in basement
click here or on picture for the detail page
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Gravel-less Drywell Leach Pit Kits are $169*
Our drywells make excellent leaching pits for composting toilet systems.
Gravel backfill around and under the drywell is not necessary, but will certainly increase the capacity of your leaching pit.
A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils.
As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
click here or on any image for the leach pit installation detail page
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly.
Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece.
Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes.
Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel).
$169* drywell kit is pictured at right ...
Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate, FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states (no Mexico, Canada, PR, HI or AK).
2 foot diameter, 2 foot tall, with a 4-3/4 inch lid
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Gravel-less Drywell Kits $169* delivered complete with full installation kit
FREE sanitary tee (curved inlet) fitting to bring liquid in the lid (better than side knockout)
FREE 4" green surface grate with riser & coupler for inspection port AND proper venting
FREE 24 square foot geotextile fabric for atop gravel to prevent soil and root intrusion
FREE shipping to lower 48 states only - sorry, no APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR or Canada
Drywell kit
lid, three sides, 4" S/D inlet tee, riser & coupler, green vent grate, and filter fabric
see drywell kit picture above
$169* free shipping
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3 side panels
extends drywell kit for an additional two foot tall. Kit includes free 24 sq ft of geotextile filter fabric.
$119* free shipping
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bottom panel
not used when disposing water.
Optional for sump basin floor or lid support in heavy traffic areas.
Drywells are not designed for use under driveways.
- no vehicular traffic -
$35* free shipping
only with purchase of drywell
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surface drain
heavy-duty 7" by 10" tall drain suitable for car traffic is placed in middle of puddle, driveway or patio.
Bottom of drain is run out to drywell in yard with 4" pipe.
$35* free shipping
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We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call us at 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, Mexico or Canada -
Here's a sample installation with TWO drywells in series - bringing storm water in through the lid.
Venting your leaching pit is most highly recommended.
Oxygen keeps the storm water drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier.
Freezing is rarely a problem with running water underground.
You can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be.
Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell.
We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric).
Please note the geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer.
This is necessary to extend the life of your leach field - the fabric keeps topsoil out of your gravel layer around the drywell.
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly.
Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece.
Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes.
Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel).
Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate, FREE geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states.
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click here or on image for drywell installation detail page
Sun-Mar Home Composter indoor garbage solution
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One of the worst things for your septic tank and leach field (or greywater system) is a garbage disposal.
Ground up particles of food don't settle out like the should, often heading straight out to your leach field and clogging its pores.
The Sun-Mar Home Composter is a self-contained, high temperature, kitchen waste composting system.
It installs nearly anywhere (size of a dishwasher), recycling your organic kitchen waste into a wonderful fertilizer!
The Sun-Mar Home Composter is the INDOOR composting solution for your household food waste.
No more messy pails and buckets, plus it creates a naturally fertilizing compost tea.
OUT OF STOCK - ETA on release date is unknown
click here or on the photo at right for detail page
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TheNaturalHome.com
0186 CR 1400
Silverthorne, CO 80498
phone: 800-563-9720
local: 970-262-6727
fax: 720-293-1705
natural@colorado.net
OFFICE HOURS ARE AVAILABLE
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PRIVACY STATEMENT - We will never release your name, contact information or purchase history to anyone!
The use of this internet site and purchase of Architerra Enterprises, Inc. (d.b.a. TheNaturalHome.com) products and services are governed by this Terms of Service Agreement and Disclaimer.
By using this internet site, you acknowledge that you have read this Terms of Service Agreement and Disclaimer and that you accept and will be bound by the terms thereof.
SunMar and Clivus Multrum composting toilet system sales, toilet composter installation, and waterless toilet service instead of a portapotty or outhouse.
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