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If you are serious about saving energy in your home, one of the fastest, easiest, and most cost effective fixes is to divert rainwater AWAY from your foundation to a drywell. Gutter downspouts that allow rainwater to soak the soil around your house do nothing but STEAL energy ... in huge quantities summer and winter alike. Our two foot diameter by two foot tall (plus five inch high lid), heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE drywells come shipped in a handy thirty pound carrying case (26" x 10" x 26"), ready for on-site assembly. Groundwater problems, roof gutter water runoff, puddles in the yard, and other household drainage problems find a solution with our drywell kit. The key to a warm, waterproof basement is taking roof gutter runoff at least 20 feet away from the foundation to be disposed of in a leaching pit (one per gutter is best). Poolside showers and BBQ area hand sink water disposal is another good application for our drywell kit. For those on septic systems, understand that water softener backwash brine is not good for your septic tank and neither is washing machine water - run them to a separate drywell leaching pit for better septic tank health. Disposing of washing machine water is a common application for the drywell kits. If you have a proper lint filter on the machine, it is possible to install a single kit, but installing two in series (as per diagram below) allows the first to act as lint & sediment trap. Installations with a lot of lint and additional sediment from other sinks should consider a full greywater system with actual settling tank. If your washing machine is not currently outfitted with a lint filter, check with manufacturer to see if one can be retrofitted. Most manufacturers can provide a removable center spindle lint filter for your washing machine that is an optional part (folks on city sewer often just send lint down the drain). At some point down the road you will need to send a vet vacuum hose down into the drywell to remove built-up lint, but that could take many years with a functional lint filter on the washing machine.
Here's a sample installation with TWO drywells in series - bringing sewage or storm water in through the lid. The first drywell acts as a sediment catch for leaves, salt, grease, lint, or other particulates and is easily cleaned by reaching down through surface vent with a wet vacuum. Venting your leaching pit is most highly recommended to allow inspection, cleaning and most important of all - air into leaching pit. Oxygen keeps the storm water drainage pit dry and the soil around it much healthier; stagnant soil will go septic and create a dense bio-mat preventing water from being able to percolate into the surrounding ground. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running water, especially that far underground. You can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. Top loading (sending water into drywell through lid with enclosed kit venting parts) also ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). Please note the geotextile fabric is included for installation primarily above the gravel layer. This is necessary to extend the life of your leach field as the fabric keeps topsoil out of your gravel layer around the drywell.
Gravel-less Drywell Kits $169* delivered complete with full installation kit
Drywell kit
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3 side panels
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bottom panel
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surface drain
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We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call us at 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, Mexico or Canada -
Drywell/springbox kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (with lid) and weigh 23 pounds apiece. Knockouts are provided around the drywell for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter knockouts for leaching holes. When used as a leaching pit (drainage "leach" field) initial surge volume is 48.6 gallons with a daily capacity relative to how much gravel is placed under and around it. A rule of thumb in well percolating soil is about 200 gallons per day, every day, with 1 foot of gravel under and around it. You do not need more drywells for greater disposal capacity (two in a pit is usually plenty) what you need for larger hole with much more gravel in it. Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly. Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid and our FREE installation kit: sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, coupler, riser, and green surface vent grate, and geotextile filter fabric. Free shipping via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states and it will leave by the next business day with tracking information automatically e-mailed to your attention.
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SIZING A LEACH PIT and CALCULATING NUMBER OF DRYWELLS Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields, roof gutter runoff, driveway and yard drainage are common applications for drywells. It is not necessary to have multiple drywells, just larger holes (leach pit) filled with more gravel (3/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch crushed aggregate size is the norm). You can not have too large of a leaching pit when disposing of large amounts of water. It is always wise to install at least two drywells in series, as per the sketch above. This arrangement allows the first drywell to act as a settling basin for dirt, leaves, and other particulates, ensuring a long lasting system by keeping the second drywell free of debris. Units can be stacked to increase the amount of surge potential for storm or sewage water disposal. The "capacity" of a drywell system is only limited by the size of the gravel filled hole you put it in (leaching pit). The drywell itself is about fifty gallons dry (surge potential), but this quickly disperses into the surrounding leach pit. Your local building department sets the equations (code) used to determine leach pit size for septic systems and yard drainage. With gutter and downspout disposal, a two inch rainfall is the standard normally used, but that will naturally vary with local weather patterns. Two inches of rain equates to 1.25 gallons per square foot of roof surface area (1 gallon being 231 cubic inches, 1 cubic foot (1728 cubic inches) being 7.48 gallons). A 1000 square foot roof, generating about 1250 gallons of water in a two inch rainfall, would, as a very general rule of thumb, require a gravel filled hole (leaching pit) large enough to hold that amount of water when empty. Certainly knowing the actual percolation rate of the soil is the only way of being certain, but a 4' by 4' by 12' long leach pit can be estimated to disperse about 1250 gallons of rainwater in most soils. A hole this size could use at least 100 gallons of surge (2 drywells) - more in slower percolating soils where you may wish to stack them, as pictured below. |
Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field.
If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.
Please dont believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.
Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money.
If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.
Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.
Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).
Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by HomeLand security.
So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.
And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery ... at least you can roll a barrel.
Should you not wish to hire a professional to flush your system, please be sure to follow strict health and safety guidelines ... at least wear a hooded jumpsuit for total skin protection, heavy duty rubber gloves and boots, and a face shield (eyes, nose, mouth).
Locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down into pipe for flushing leach field prior to adding hydrogen peroxide.
A "fire hose" is best, which is basically what septic waste trucks are equipped with.
If you do not wish to pay a septic hauler to bring a load of clear water for powerful flushing purposes, you can use a garden hose.
It certainly helps to increase the pressure with an in-line booster pump should you wish to economize, though.
Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no air in the pipes.
Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer.
This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time.
If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat.
Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first.
Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line.
Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines.
Do not use this hole for your drywell location ... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil.
Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour a 55 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines.
Put the lines under pressure for a few minutes, if possible.
Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect.
The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture.
Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore.
If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later.
Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen.
Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles ... and pay attention.
Due to motor freight costs, we do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, but it is readily available from your local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field.
Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.
"How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.
You have to examine why it failed in the first place.
The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.
Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.
Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.
An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits.
These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent.
Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the servicable life expectancy.
A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you can not have too large of a leaching pit - the more gravel the better.
As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field. |
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INSTALLATION AS A DRYWELL
Knock out or cut out the 1 inch ports to allow water to drain out.
Hit the "X" marks on the inside of each panel with a small hammer.
Rest the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 laid close to the hole being removed.
As you might guess, this is a great time to have a bored 10 year old handy.
Knock out 4 inch port in top lid and side panels as needed for pipe connections.
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Backfill evenly around the drywell with soil or gravel, raising the level in stages to avoid tipping the unit. The drywell may be surrounded with stone if desired to increase leaching capacity, but do not fill the inside of drywell with stone. It is typical to use 1-1/2 inch diameter crushed gravel for a leaching pit, but anything down to about 3/4 inch will work. Do not use small "pea" gravel and avoid smooth river rock whenever possible. |
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Bury the drywell at least eight inches below the surface grade, if not a foot or two. The more soil coverage atop the lid, the easier it will be to regrow vegetation. A common approach in poorly percolating soils is to bring the gravel around drywell all the way up to finish grade. Exposed gravel will allow the leaching pit to get rid of water through evaporation in additional to percolation. These drawings do not highlight like the installation diagrams at top of page, but always vent your leach pit for best performance and soil health. |
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Understand that vehicular traffic atop drywell lid should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer. When a leaching pit is placed where vehicles may occasionally pass near, you should always consult a local soil engineer. Rock fill, poorly percolating soil, ground water and/or saturation of perimeter with runoff may dictate an advanced engineering approach we can not supply you with. The minimal approach taken by engineers is to require a reinforced concrete base/pad under the drywell bottom panel and a 4 inch diameter Sch40 riser pipe from base to bottom of lid (vertical loading as per image above). In worst case scenarios, you might see engineeers add a reinforced concrete pad atop too. When stacking drywells, order the set of three side panels and assemble with the full kit of three panels and lid. Stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time. Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells. |
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When leaching roof gutter water, always vent the downspout to insure against backup/burping. In practice, this amounts to not sealing around where the rectangular gutter enters the four inch drain pipe. For occassional foot traffic, the free surface vent grate supplied with $169 kit is adequate. In high traffic areas, the optional surface drain may be added. Either allows overflow of excess water and serves as an inspection & cleaning port. Surface drain can be placed directly into the lid or a pipe can be run from the drain to drywell. Divert driveway and yard water runoff away from foundation to prevent leaky basements. |
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FOR USE AS A SUMP PIT Knock out all of the 1-1/4 inch holes in all three side panels to ensure adequate percolation into drywell. Assemble the drywell first and then lower the optional bottom panel in place as marked This Side Up. Do not remove port holes in the bottom panel (base). Wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure with duct tape. We suggest not screwing lid to drywell body when installing a pump. |
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Knock out the 4 inch plug on lid if your pump has a center discharge pipe or an opening can be drilled anywhere you wish. For pedestal pumps, like that pictured at right, you can cut out the "U" shaped section on the top cover. Conventional sump pumps are simply placed on bottom panel or atop a brick, if you wish to avoid silt accumulation in base. Attach pump securely to lid, side and/or bottom panel with wire strapping to insure smooth operation of the cut-off float by avoiding chance of tipping over. |
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IMPORTANT NOTICE: It is your obligation to determine whether this product is suitable for the intended use and particular application. Consult your building officials to insure compliance with all building codes and requirements. These step-by-step instructions provided reflect mechanical assembly only. Additional information may be necessary to insure proper results for all applications. Consult with professionals to determine special soil conditions and structural requirements. |
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In populated areas, storm water regulations often apply to any project disturbing more than an acre of Earth.
Construction site runoff sediment control can be addressed with drywells, as pictured above.
Storm water is directed through a series of drywells for construction site sediment containment (erosion control).
Discharge is effectively cleaned/filtered of larger particles before entering the street, thus protecting local storm sewers, ditches and gutters.
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Gravel-less Drywell Kits $169* delivered complete with full installation kit
|
Drywell kit
|
3 side panels
|
bottom panel
|
surface drain
|
We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call us at 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, Mexico or Canada -
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