Septic tanks & Infiltrator chambers are not shipped outside Colorado
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Septic tanks & Infiltrator chambers are not shipped outside Colorado
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The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment (chamber) septic tank.
Solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top of the first compartment.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As incoming sewage from the house fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second chamber of the septic tank and flow out to the leach field or leach pit.
The typical leach field is a series of shallow rock filled trenches where effluent is "purified" as it slowly percolates through the soil.
A leach pit is a deeper, larger hole filled with rock for disposing of wastewater.
In most of the country, local regulatory officials allow "homeowner-builders" to submit a site plan and pull their own installation permits.
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help you every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs and do our best to ensure you don't make that one mistake that ruins the entire system.
Even professionals with 30 years in the business seem to get too tied up in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach the question.
Good consultation is priceless - ours is free with purchase of a system.
Depending upon local building regulations, you may or may not need to hire a state licensed professional engineer to design your septic system, but you never know until you ask your building department.
What follows is a very general guide to Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") guidelines (code).
What is code in my area? is a uniquely local question and often changes yearly.
Septic system rules and leach field sizing equations vary wildly from one town to the next, so you need to check and see what is required on your property.
We would have no idea until we see a copy of the latest ISDS regulations for your area.
Septic System Consultation & Filter Septic Filter Basins Plastic Septic Tanks
Left click on any picture here for a short-cut to that particular item or
simply keep scrolling down to view our entire septic system chapter
Infiltrator Leach Field Leach Pit Kit 9 volt Flood Alarm Home Composter
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Septic tank sizing is determined by usage. The object with septic tank sewage treatment is to retain the effluent in the septic tank for at least 30 hours. This allows time for solids to settle on the bottom and grease to float to the top. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 bedroom home will require a 1000 gallon septic tank; 3 bedroom 1250 gallon septic tank; and 4 bedroom 1500 gallon septic tank. All of these are minimum requirements - to some extent, the bigger the better. A longer retention time allows the solid waste to decompose more completely. Some building departments require at least a 1250 gallon septic tank for any size home. |
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--- NO detail page from these two images, yet ---
The image at right is a page straight out of our local county's ISDS manual
Slower percolation rates and/or poorly draining soil (more clay) require larger leach fields. There are two ways to calculate the minimum absorption area ("leach field"). Typically, you dig an eight foot inspection hole in the area of the intended leach field and your local building department physically examines the soil to determine its Long Term Acceptance Rate ("LTAR"). In some areas of the country, a local soil testing firm must be hired to perform a percolation test to "clock" the speed of your soil's capacity to absorb liquids.
The typical flow rate ("Q") is 75 gallons per person per day with an extra 50% often added by some counties (see right):
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» Stamped, engineered, septic system plans are typically not necessary unless your property's percolation test was "extreme" (greater than 60 minutes per inch or less than 5 minutes per inch); or the site has seasonal groundwater; or there is bedrock or unsuitable soil less than four feet below the proposed leach field; or if the ground slope is in excess of 30% in the area of the proposed leach field. "Engineered systems" require a local engineer to approve ("stamp") your site's septic tank and leach field plans. Anyone can draw up their own septic system plan ("design"), but legal liability lies with the approving regulatory officials when you are "pulling a permit" unless they require ("code") an engineer's approval." Local engineers are familiar with local codes which vary from town to town, year to year, and sometimes, inspector to inspector. When the soil percolation rate of your site is "extreme", the local regulatory officials ("health department") defers to a licensed and insured local engineer to "stamp" the plans as being "safe" for the client, his/her neighbors, and the environment." This releases the local government from future legal liability for your "extreme" septic system's failure. Please note that we are not an engineering firm - we do not supply stamped, engineered plans.
» When you apply for your building permit, the local health department official will most likely help you design the sewage disposal system and may even offer to have their office perform a soil test (LTAR) in lieu of a percolation test. This involves digging a "soil profile hole", which is generally an eight foot deep trench in the area of the leach field. Most building departments wisely require a visual confirmation that there are no problematic soil conditions, groundwater, or bedrock in the area where you intend to put the leach field. Check with your local officials, you may only need to provide a site plan survey (ILC) of your property (to establish setbacks from buildings, wells, streams, and property lines) and fill out some forms.
» Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank within 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house and at least 100 feet away from wells, 75 feet away from streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property lines. Or whatever the local regualtory officials require.
» The home's sewer line drain needs to slope at least 1/4 inch per foot downhill to the inlet side of the septic tank and the outlet pipe needs to flow downhill at least 1/8 inch per foot downhill to the leach field where the septic tank effluent enters a manifold or distribution ("D") box. Beyond the manifold or D box the leach field trenches (for an Infiltrator chamber system) are excavated perfectly level at a depth of seven inches below the grade of the manifold pipes or D box.
» If the leach field is uphill from the septic tank (or if the local health regulations simply require it) a "lift station" is installed in-line after the septic tank. An electric pump in the lift station forces effluent out to the leach field every time it fills to a certain level ("dosing"). Please note that most ISDS codes allow field size reductions with dosing or automatic siphons, so there may be a certain advantage to installing a lift station (small building lots and/or nearby streams or ponds).
» Never grind up ("macerate") your sewage before sending to a septic tank. Pumping treated sewage up to the leach field is always and option ("pump or lift station"), but do not macerate. The septic tank operates by digesting solids. Digestion is best when sludge settles to the bottom and grease floats to the top of the septic tank. Macerating the sewage before entering the septic tank will create a septic tank without any solids, just a cloud of ground up sewage. When you send these particles out to the leach field, you are bound to eventually clog the soil and the leach field fails.
» If your system is too large or not used enough, the septic tank is subject to possible freezing in the winter. Steps must be taken to ensure good operation. Not pumping the tank right before winter is a good example: there is very little biological activity (bacteria consuming organics) to keep a clean sewage tank water warm. Always install waterproofing above septic tank to divert water and thus frost at least three feet away. In practice, this amounts to backfilling up to top of tank, sloping the ground away (mound) around perimeter, and then laying down a plastic tarp. A good tip is to set down a layer of straw before the tarp - it will cushion against rock damage. In extreme climates, a layer of two inch thick extruded polystyrene (EPS) foamboard is recommended below the tarp. If you can keep the water away from the sides of the tank, you can retain more heat and speed decomposition of waste.
» If allowed, always divert greywater to a separate leach field (see greywater.html for details). Greywater contains soaps, which are designed to kill bacteria (clean and disinfect things). You want to encourage helpful "good" bacteria (digesting anaerobic cultures) to grow in your septic tank, not kill them with soap laden graywater.
Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent).
Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank.
Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
how to fix a failed leach field
Septic system additives are truly a waste of money and harmful to leach field health in the long run.
A leach field eventually fails due to formation of "bio-mat" in the soil underneath lateral lines and/or percolation chambers.
Solids, grease, and smaller particulates allowed to leave the septic tank, build-up as a bio-mat of viscous slime over the years, clogging soil pores and rendering the leach field inoperable for percolation.
Septic system additives break down fats and solids in the septic tank, allowing smaller particulates to pass through the septic filter (hopefully you have one) where they re-unite in the leach field.
We would never suggest flushing septic system additives into your septic tank, but they might be helpful when presented directly to the leach field itself.
Theoretically, these digestive additives could be poured down the leach field vents at end of the lateral lines and then filled with water to disperse them evenly throughout the leach field.
If they manage to digest some of the bio-mat formation, it would help the leach field maintain effectiveness percolating sewage.
You just have to ask yourself if you would like to see these additives find their way into your well water.
Anything that can digest raw sewage would personally scare me to have in my drinking water and thus my digestive system.
A properly designed septic tank (two compartments and large enough) is going to operate just fine without additives.
Avoid those "too good to be true" septic system additives on the market today.
If you want to preserve your leach field health in a more natural way, pour a 50 gallon barrel of hydrogen peroxide down the vents at end of each lateral line.
The same thing it does on a cut, it will do in the leach field lines, loosening up the bio-mat and restoring healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture to the soil underneath.
We do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide since motor freight shipping costs make it much more cost effective for clients to purchase from a local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, pouring a barrel into the lateral line vents every 3-5 years is suggested rather than waiting until the leach field fails.
Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.
"How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.
You have to examine why it failed in the first place.
The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.
Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.
Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.
An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line: drywell kits.
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
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consultation package w/ septic filter kit $475*
Building a new home or renovating an old septic system?
We'll consult for a flat-fee of $475, which also includes a FREE septic filter kit.
TheNaturalHome.com has years of hands-on experience with all manner of septic tanks and leach fields.
Sign up for one of our consultation packages and we'll help with your installation or repair and hopefully head some mistakes off before they happen.
Should you need advanced aeration systems we do not retail them, but we do refer consultation clients directly to the manufacturer for purchase from a local installer.
Please note that advanced treatment systems are not "over-the-counter" purchases.
Your local building department will typically call for professional installation and stamped, engineered plans for an advanced system (anything other than a standard septic tank and leach field).
We are not a nationwide engineering firm - we do not supply stamped, engineered plans.
If you are required by code to present engineered designs or soil testing, you will also need to retain a local engineering firm.
Our terms of service agreement outlines the consultation services being offered.
Every septic system requires at least one particulate filter, so it's always a good place to start.
Protect your leachfield with a septic filter.
Along with initial design blueprint samples, we'll UPS our standard sieve filter, which fits four inch sch40 or thin wall SDR35 pipe.
Designed for single family home sewage disposal systems, this high volume septic filter is easy to install on any new (or retrofit on your existing) septic tank.
The number one reason sewage fields fail is either poor design or drain lines clogged with sediment.
You can greatly increase the life expectancy any sewage disposal system by installing a septic filter.
Prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from exiting to your leach field and clogging it up.
Located in the second compartment of your septic tank, septic filters extend beneath the scum layer, taking relatively clear effluent from the layer in middle of tank.
It's external to internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap prevents gas borne solids (tiny particles which float atop gas bubbles) from entering the septic filter.
And, you will never need to replace it - just hose off once a year, or so, while you are checking the tank health.
We carry several models of septic filters, basins and pumps to suit nearly any septic tank layout.
We do not provide free consultation, but you may drop us an email natural@colorado.net with any questions or concerns.
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Georgia Co-Operative Extension Service 540kb .pdf
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TheNaturalHome.com
Consultation service
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click here for filter spec |
Please note the filter housing is ABS plastic, so use a multipurpose glue when attaching to PVC outlet pipe. Always prime all glue joints first, before gluing.
click here or picture above for the septic filter detail page
consultation package w/ septic filter basin $800*
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Installing a new septic system or renovating an old leach field and you can not fit a filter into your septic tank (or only have a single compartment septic tank)? Part of the "trick" with any septic system is to have multiple compartments for sewage to settle. Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) that manage to bypass the septic tank will settle to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top. Passive (non-electric no moving parts) - as septic efluent flows in, clarified effluent flows out; nice and simple like it should be for carefree passive operation. We'll ship you this 26" diameter by 42" tall settling tank kit and then consult on your septic system for a one time fee of $800. These heavy duty filter basin kits come complete with everything you'll need: settling basin with lid, neoprene gasket, tamper resistant fasteners, SDR35 rubber grommets, 4 inch inlet and outlet pipes (inlet assemby & hole not shown in picture), septic filter assembly, hole saw kit, and our consultation design services. We'll do our best to help with all aspects of your septic system design, installation, and operation.
$800* - free shipping
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click here or on the picture above for specifications on the filter basin
á la carte system parts without consultation
The two kits offered above come complete with on-going flat fee consultation to help with your septic system design, installation, and operation. Should you not need our consultation services, just the parts, we offer the components individually. We are happy to assist with any questions or concerns about the individual part you purchase, but please note that system design consultation is not included when ordering only the tank, diverter valve, or filter kit á la carte.
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Purchase just the filter kit with housing and handle for $75*
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Please note the filter housing is ABS plastic, so use a multipurpose glue when attaching to PVC outlet pipe. Always prime all glue joints first, before gluing.
click here or on picture for the septic sieve filter detail page
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Deluxe Septic Settling Tank Kit (no filter) for $350*
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Tank shown with filter for illustration only | Nothing beats a nice tank. While larger settling tanks are possible - we do not ship them. Part of the "trick" with tank sizing is that the second or third compartment (in-line settling tank) does not need to be large, if the septic tank itself is sized properly. This $350 (inludes shipping) durable, buried vault is just the right size for your normal family and has long been a standard part every system we sell. Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) settles to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top. A priceless tip is to avoid "natural" or otherwise bar soaps, which are often 99% refined chicken fat - liquid soaps are advised (avoid bleach and borax for better septic tank health). Passive (non-electric no moving parts) - as septic efluent flows in, clarified effluent flows out to preserve your leach field by preventing bio-mat formation. Septic filter/settling basin kit is 26" diameter by 42" tall and includes: tank with lid, SDR35 rubber grommets for 4 inch inlet and outlet pipes (inlet hole not shown in picture), neoprene lid gasket, and tamper resistant lid fasteners to keep children out of tank. Filter with housing and handle kit is sold separate above for $75. |
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Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side for $79*
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One of the keys to a quality gravity distribution system is the injection molded PVC flow director. Even distribution is VERY important, so don't trust old-fashioned distribution boxes (D Boxes) which are notoriously unreliable. Even a minor amount of settling will drastically affect a D box's even distribution. One of the most common mistakes with septic systems is relying upon simple Tees or Double Ells to properly distribute your effluent. Eventual settling & leveling errors as little as 1/8 of inch result in enormous differences in effluent distribution with Tees and Ells (maniflods) and D boxes. The "trick" to septic leach field longevity is good soil health. Designing a system that allows you to switch (every few months) from one leach field to another allows one field to dry out between watering cycles and regain its health by opening soil pores to air. Leaving a leach field sodden constantly creates a septic 'bio-mat' in the lateral line trench that eventually causes a system to stop percolating and fail. This director/diverter valve (flow director) allows you to split septic effluent exactly 50/50 or divert all to one side or the other. Laboratory tests have shown that even at a 1/8 inch tilt, these Flow Director Valves still deliver relatively equal 50/50 flow (+/- 1.3%). New stepped hub design (not shown) allows use of either Sch40 or SDR35 four inch PVC pipe. Material is injection molded PVC plastic and while not rated Sch40 or SDR35 since it is not a pressure fitting, the thickness is nearly that of Sch40. Director valve kit ships complete with threaded access cap, coupler for riser pipe, and flow adjustment handle. Please note that there is a 2-1/4 inch elevational drop between inlet pipe and outlet pipes on this director valve, so these may not work for a remodel where limited slope is available. Your effluent lines need to drop at least 1/8 inch per foot between tank and leach field.
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Leaching pit kits are $159* - free shipping to 48 states
Our leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field.
If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.
Please dont believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.
Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money.
Filling the lateral lines with pressurized hydrogen peroxide (available from any swimming pool supply store) is the best/only low-impact (money and environment) temporary fix.
Basically, you dig down to find line going from septic tank to leach field, cut into it and run a pipe up to the surface.
This pipe later becomes the leach field vent for front of lateral line(s), which is a very important part of any septic system ... always vent or soil gets deprived of oxygen and bio-mat forms.
Pour a 50 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into the pipe and then pressurize the lines, filling voids (after running out of peroxide) with water (attach a fitting to bring down to hose size).
Mind you, if the field is vented like it is supposed to be, you will need to cap any vent risers to allow system to pressurize.
The hydrogen peroxide will bubble up like it does on a cut, loosening the bio-mat in gravel/soil, allowing it to percolate again.
After it has set for a day, or so, remove the cap(s) from end of lateral line(s) and blast the accumulated bio-mat out of the leach field.
Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore.
If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later.
Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen.
Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles ... and pay attention.
The easiest permanent fix for a failing leach field is to add leaching pits to the end of every lateral line.
If you do not have a detailed survey of leach field location, it is possible to probe with a sharp steel spike.
The ground tends to be softer over the leach field lateral lines.
Once you find the end of the lateral line, dig a large pit and insert one or two drywells (stacked or in series).
This takes the load off existing leach field, lets it dry out and often brings the previously clogged leach field back to life.
These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent.
Gravel backfill around and under the leaching pits will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the servicable life expectancy.
A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils.
As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended. Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly. Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece. Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes. Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel). Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate, FREE geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states. |
Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields are a common usage for drywell kits (leach pits). Drywells are extremely handy for repairing a failing septic system - there is really no need to replace the existing system. If you have a failing leach field, you can attach one or more drywells to the end of one (or more) "finger" of the leach field perforated drain pipe. This is an excellent low cost way to save a failing leach field by allowing sewage to again percolate into the soil through a drywell leaching pit. As pictured below, units can be stacked and gravel placed around them to increase the amount of sewage water the leach pit system is capable of disposing.
click here or on image above for the drywell installation detail page
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly.
Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece.
Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes.
Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel).
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Drywell kit
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3 side panels
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bottom panel
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surface drain
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We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
click here or on any picture for drywell installaton details and specifications
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, or Canada -
click here or on any image for the leach pit installation detail page
Colorado Only, consultation with septic tank kit $1525*
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $1525 for the 1250 gallon tank and +/- $1725 for the 1500 gallon in most of Colorado.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $475 consultation package, but we no longer ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past 100 mile radius of Denver.
Interstate freight can easily add over five hundred dollars, so you can always purchase locally available septic tanks for much less.
Septic tank size depends entirely upon local building code requirement, which is spelled out in the Individual Sewage Disposal System (ISDS) regulations for your area ("code").
Get yourself a copy of the ISDS at the building department and study it well.
Every county in every state seems to have its own unique regulations, equations and definitions.
Local code sometimes changes yearly and always is open for interpretation.
The larger the septic tank, the slower and more thoroughly it processes the solid waste.
Therefore, a 1250 gallon two compartment septic tank is generally considered a minimum size requirement (1, 2 or 3 bedroom).
While 1000 gallon and less is available, any cost savings is quickly lost from increased pumping frequency and greater chance of leach field contamination from undigested solids.
Add 250 gallons per bedroom: 1500 gallon for four bedrooms, if not 2000 gallon, which is code in some areas.
Plastic tanks have many advantages over concrete: consistent quality, specific styles for unique locations, portability without a crane, and durability in wet locations.
Fiberglass should never be considered due to its tendency to eventually dry out and become relatively fragile.
One crack and it will not hold water - time to replace - that's why we almost always specify plastic tanks.
In some parts of the country, local code requires a concrete septic tank ("vault") for its assumption of strength and durability.
Be VERY careful with concrete septic vaults as there is a huge difference in quality from one manufacturer to the next and sometimes from one batch of concrete to the next.
In general, be advised NOT to purchase a rectangular concrete septic tank (square corners).
Vaults cast with rounded ends (hockey rink shaped) are MUCH stronger and they should apply several overlapping coats of waterproofing to inside and outside for longevity.
Concrete exposed to constant moisture (high groundwater), salts and chemicals (water softener back-flush, bleach, draino, etc) will eventually errode, start leaking, and need replaced.
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1250 gallon two compartment tank kit
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click here or on the picture above for specifications on our stock septic tanks
Colorado Only, Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems
The septic system's leach field is seldom given the attention it so richly deserves. Most people don't understand that perforated pipe in a gravel bed is NOT the best choice for a long-lasting, durable septic system. Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems are far superior in every aspect: root infiltration protection, optimal percolation, long term viability, resistance to traffic, retention capability for heavy load days, and more. You don't need to hire an engineer to design your septic system in most areas. Your local regulatory officials will likely allow you to submit a site plan and pull your installation permits as the "homeowner-builder". Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system! In general, budget around $1700 for two bedroom home, $2100 for a three bedroom, and around $2600 for a complete 4 bedroom Infiltrator chamber leach field kit. Total package price depends upon leach field layout (bed versus trench) and number of Infiltrator chambers required, which is not known until you get a soil test and a copy of the local Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") regulations. Local building code supplies the equation used to calculate leach field size: number of bedrooms X percolation rate of the soil. Installation is relatively straight-forward, but even seasoned professionals can get too mired in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach any project. We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not venting your leach field properly. If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $475 consultation package, but we no longer ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past 100 mile radius of Denver. We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: www.infiltratorsystems.com.
click here or on pictures for Infiltrator installation details
Price varies with number of chambers,
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Conventional leach fields use perforated plastic pipes laid in a twelve inch gravel bed. It is not a stretch of the imagination to envision those small holes clogging faster than a three foot wide chamber. That's why we only sell the best! Infiltator chamber leach fields are high-density polyethylene arches that interlock to form a continuous drainage area with a much greater storage ("surge") volume than conventional perforated pipe leach fields. Installation simply involves digging a series of three foot wide trenches (or a large rectanglar bed as shown below), connecting the Infiltrator chambers and then backfilling with the soil you originally removed. No gravel is needed - but gravel is always an option to aid percolation in poor soils. Theoretically, over ninety percent of the solid waste entering your septic tank is broken down by anaerobic bacteria. The remaining sludge builds up until you pay to have it pumped out. If your septic tank is not pumped regularly, solid waste eventually overflows into the leach field where the soil clogs, your field "fails" and has to be replaced, which is a very messy and costly affair. By the way, don't believe those ads you see for "digesters" which are supposed to "save" your leach field and "clean" up your septic tank. A healthy, well-designed septic system works without any assistance. An unhealthy, ill-designed septic system is going to fail irregardless of how much digester you flush down the toilet. And you will likely poison your groundwater in the process - anything dissolves organic matter can not be good for your family health or ground water quality. |
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Please note that Infiltrator has dropped the longer 75 inch chambers in favor of the "Quick4" standard of 52 inches long with a net length of 48 inches. The Quick4 chamber's ability to angle up to 10 degrees allows it to contour along sloped sites and curve around obstructions. |  |
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Flood alarm moisture sensors are an integral part of many sustainable design systems. Sump pumps, cisterns, septic tanks, greasetraps, and greywater filters alike can all benefit from this early warning overfill alarm. Washing machines, water heaters, pressure tanks and other household plumbing will leak, eventually. This flood alarm will let you know there's a problem with a piercing 110dB wail long before your couch starts to float away. This flood alarm's solid state circuitry is built into a 3 inch wide, 4.25 inch tall, and 1.5 inch deep sensor compartment. A single 9 volt battery powers the alarm and a battery saver feature keeps batteries fresh longer. Don't take chances with water damage. Protect yourself with a flood alarm. $20* FREE First Class / Priority US Mail click here or on image for flood alarm detail page |
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Sun-Mar Home Composter indoor garbage solution
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One of the worst things for your septic tank and leach field (or greywater system) is a garbage disposal. Ground up particles of food don't settle out like the should, often heading straight out to your leach field and clogging its pores. The SunMar Home Composter is a self-contained, high temperature, kitchen waste composting system. It installs nearly anywhere (size of a dishwasher), recycling your organic kitchen waste into a wonderful fertilizer! The SunMar Home Composter is the INDOOR composting solution for your household food waste. No more messy pails and buckets, plus it creates a naturally fertilizing compost tea. click here or on image for Home Composter detail page |
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Hot links to our main website chapters:
|Passive Solar Design|
|Shade Cloth|
|Gas Refrigerators|
|Stainless Steel Appliances|
|Solar Products|
|Septic Systems|
|Composting Toilets|
|Greywater Recycling|
|Drywell Kits|
|Site Map|
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$75* initial design consultation
After reviewing the material, we encourage you to drop us an email with your questions. Whether concerning HTMs specifically or passive solar in general, our initial consultation will address your concerns. |
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$9* DVD only
One hour long video on universal DVD format |
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First half hour walks you through the sustainable design, HTM passive solar earthhome featured on our website. While not a How-To video, the second half does include detailed Infiltrator chamber leach field septic system installation and Sun-Mar composting toilet footage. |
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Who's TheNaturalHome.com?
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Phone: 800-563-9720
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