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The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment (chamber) septic tank.
Solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top of the first compartment.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As incoming sewage from the house fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second chamber of the septic tank and flow out to the leach field or leach pit.
The typical leach field is a series of shallow rock filled trenches where effluent is "purified" as it slowly percolates through the soil.
A leach pit is a deeper, larger hole filled with rock for disposing of wastewater.
In most of the country, local regulatory officials allow "homeowner-builders" to submit a site plan and pull their own installation permits.
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help you every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs and do our best to ensure you don't make that one mistake that ruins the entire system.
Even professionals with 30 years in the business seem to get too tied up in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach the question.
Good consultation is priceless - ours is free with purchase of a system.
Depending upon local building regulations, you may or may not need to hire a state licensed professional engineer to design your septic system, but you never know until you ask your building department.
What follows is a very general guide to Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") guidelines (code).
What is code in my area? is a uniquely local question and often changes yearly.
Septic system rules and leach field sizing equations vary wildly from one town to the next, so you need to check and see what is required on your property.
We would have no idea until we see a copy of the latest ISDS regulations for your area.
Septic System Consultation & Filter Septic Filter Basins Plastic Septic Tanks
Left click on any picture here for a short-cut to that particular item or
simply keep scrolling down to view our entire septic system chapter
Infiltrator Chambers Leach Pit Drywell Kit 9 volt Flood Alarm Home Composter
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Septic tank sizing is determined by usage. The object with septic tank sewage treatment is to retain the effluent in the septic tank for at least 30 hours. This allows time for solids to settle on the bottom and grease to float to the top. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 bedroom home will require a 1000 gallon septic tank; 3 bedroom 1250 gallon septic tank; and 4 bedroom 1500 gallon septic tank. All of these are minimum requirements - to some extent, the bigger the better. A longer retention time allows the solid waste to decompose more completely. Some building departments require at least a 1250 gallon septic tank for any size home. |
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The image at right is a page straight out of our county ISDS manual
Slower percolation rates and/or poorly draining soil (more clay) require larger leach fields. There are two ways to calculate the minimum absorption area (leach field). Typically, you dig an eight foot inspection hole in the area of the intended leach field and your local building department physically examines the soil to determine its Long Term Acceptance Rate ("LTAR"). In some areas of the country, a local soil testing firm must be hired to perform a percolation test to "clock" the speed of your soil's capacity to absorb liquids.
The typical flow rate ("Q") is 75 gallons per person per day with an extra 50% often added by some counties (see right):
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» Stamped, engineered, septic system plans are typically not necessary unless your property's percolation test was "extreme" (greater than 60 minutes per inch or less than 5 minutes per inch); or the site has seasonal groundwater; or there is bedrock or unsuitable soil less than four feet below the proposed leach field; or if the ground slope is in excess of 30% in the area of the proposed leach field.
"Engineered systems" require a local engineer to approve ("stamp") your site's septic tank and leach field plans. Anyone can draw up their own septic system plan ("design"), but legal liability lies with the approving regulatory officials when you are "pulling a permit" unless they require ("code") an engineer's approval." Local engineers are familiar with local codes which vary from town to town, year to year, and sometimes, inspector to inspector.
When the soil percolation rate of your site is "extreme", the local regulatory officials ("health department") defers to a licensed and insured local engineer to "stamp" the plans as being "safe" for the client, his/her neighbors, and the environment."
This releases the local government from future legal liability for your "extreme" septic system's failure.
Please note that we are not an engineering firm - we do not supply stamped, engineered plans.
» When you apply for your building permit, the local health department official will most likely help you design the sewage disposal system and may even offer to have their office perform a soil test (LTAR) in lieu of a percolation test.
This involves digging a "soil profile hole", which is generally an eight foot deep trench in the area of the leach field.
Most building departments wisely require a visual confirmation that there are no problematic soil conditions, groundwater, or bedrock in the area where you intend to put the leach field.
Check with your local officials, you may only need to provide a site plan survey (ILC) of your property (to establish setbacks from buildings, wells, streams, and property lines) and fill out some forms.
» Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank within 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house and at least 100 feet away from wells, 75 feet away from streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property lines.
Or whatever the local regualtory officials require.
» The home's sewer line drain needs to slope at least 1/4 inch per foot downhill to the inlet side of the septic tank and the outlet pipe needs to flow downhill at least 1/8 inch per foot downhill to the leach field where the septic tank effluent enters a manifold or distribution ("D") box.
Beyond the manifold or D box the leach field trenches (for an Infiltrator chamber system) are excavated perfectly level at a depth of seven inches below the grade of the manifold pipes or D box.
» If the leach field is uphill from the septic tank (or if the local health regulations simply require it) a "lift station" is installed in-line after the septic tank.
An electric pump in the lift station forces effluent out to the leach field every time it fills to a certain level ("dosing").
Please note that most ISDS codes allow field size reductions with dosing or automatic siphons, so there may be a certain advantage to installing a lift station (small building lots and/or nearby streams or ponds).
» If you can avoid it, never grind up ("macerate") your sewage before sending to a septic tank.
Pumping treated sewage up to the leach field is always and option ("pump or lift station"), but do not macerate.
The septic tank operates by digesting solids.
Digestion is best when sludge settles to the bottom and grease floats to the top of the septic tank.
Macerating the sewage before entering the septic tank will create a septic tank without any solids, just a cloud of ground up sewage.
When you send these particles out to the leach field, you are bound to eventually clog the soil and the leach field fails.
» If your system is too large or not used enough, the septic tank is subject to possible freezing in the winter.
Steps must be taken to ensure good operation.
Not pumping the tank right before winter is a good example: there is very little biological activity (bacteria consuming organics) to keep a clean sewage tank water warm.
Always install waterproofing above septic tank to divert water and thus frost at least three feet away.
In practice, this amounts to backfilling up to top of tank, sloping the ground away (mound) around perimeter, and then laying down a plastic tarp.
A good tip is to set down a layer of straw before the tarp - it will cushion against rock damage.
In extreme climates, a layer of two inch thick extruded polystyrene (EPS) foamboard is recommended below the tarp.
If you can keep the water away from the sides of the tank, you can retain more heat and speed decomposition of waste.
» If allowed, always divert greywater to a separate leach field (see greywater.html for details).
Greywater contains soaps, which are designed to kill bacteria (clean and disinfect things).
You want to encourage helpful "good" bacteria (digesting anaerobic cultures) to grow in your septic tank, not kill them with soap laden graywater.
A word about using bleach and harsh soaps with a septic system
What is the best germ and bacteria killing substance in your house? Bleach - it kills bacteria
What thrives in a healthy septic tank to optimally process toilet waste? Bacteria - they eat poop
What happens when your leach field fails from bio-mat (liquid poop)? You are poop out of luck
Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field (or alternative disposal method). 
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Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent).
Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank.
Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
how to fix a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field
Leach fields eventually fail due to formation of "bio-mat" in the soil underneath lateral lines and/or percolation chambers. Solids, grease, and smaller particulates allowed to leave the septic tank, build-up as a bio-mat of viscous slime over the years, clogging soil pores and rendering the leach field inoperable for percolation. Septic tank effluent (sewage water) simply can not penetrate the layer and your leach field fails. Regardless of the septic system design, the leach field eventually fails ... it is just a matter of time. A well designed system should last thirty years or more, though. After it fails, you build a new leach field in a fresh part of the yard. Should someone give you a sales pitch about punching holes all over the leach field area with a machine and injecting styrofoam beads to "open up the soil", just say no. Even with a "guarantee", these high-tech mechanical approaches to fixing a failing leach field are only short-term solutions, at best. Save your money and avoid getting conned ... replacing (or adding onto) a failed leach field is your only long-term solution. And never, ever, rebuild over the top of an existing leach field - always maintain at least six feet of clearance.
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PLEASE DON'T USE SEPTIC TANK ADDITIVES
Septic system additives are truly a waste of money and nearly all are harmful to the environment.
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If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.
Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.
Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).
Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by HomeLand security.
So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.
And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery ... at least you can roll a barrel.
Should you not wish to hire a professional to flush your system, please be sure to follow strict health and safety guidelines ... at least wear a hooded jumpsuit for total skin protection, heavy duty rubber gloves and boots, and a face shield (eyes, nose, mouth).
Locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down into pipe for flushing leach field prior to adding hydrogen peroxide.
A "fire hose" is best, which is basically what septic waste trucks are equipped with.
If you do not wish to pay a septic hauler to bring a load of clear water for powerful flushing purposes, you can use a garden hose.
It certainly helps to increase the pressure with an in-line booster pump should you wish to economize, though.
Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no air in the pipes.
Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer.
This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time.
If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat.
Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first.
Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line.
Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines.
Do not use this hole for your drywell location ... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil.
Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour a 55 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines.
Put the lines under pressure for a few minutes, if possible.
Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect.
The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture.
Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore.
If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later.
Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen.
Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles ... and pay attention.
Due to motor freight costs, we do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, but it is readily available from your local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field.
Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.
"How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.
You have to examine why it failed in the first place.
The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.
Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.
Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.
An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits.
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
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consultation package with septic filter kit $450*
Building a new home or renovating an old septic system?
We'll consult for a flat-fee of $450, which also includes a FREE septic filter kit.
TheNaturalHome.com has years of hands-on experience with all manner of septic tanks and leach fields.
Sign up for one of our consultation packages and we'll help with your installation or repair and hopefully head some mistakes off before they happen.
Should you need advanced aeration systems we do not retail them, but we do refer consultation clients directly to the manufacturer for purchase from a local installer.
Please note that advanced treatment systems are not "over-the-counter" purchases.
Your local building department will typically call for professional installation and stamped, engineered plans for an advanced system (anything other than a standard septic tank and leach field).
We are not a nationwide engineering firm - we do not supply stamped, engineered plans.
If you are required by code to present engineered designs or soil testing, you will also need to retain a local engineering firm.
Our terms of service agreement outlines the consultation services being offered.
Every septic system requires at least one particulate filter, so it's always a good place to start.
Protect your leachfield with a septic filter.
Along with initial design blueprint samples, we'll UPS our standard sieve filter, which fits four inch sch40 or thin wall SDR35 pipe.
Designed for single family home sewage disposal systems, this high volume septic filter is easy to install on any new (or retrofit on your existing) septic tank.
The number one reason sewage fields fail is either poor design or drain lines clogged with sediment.
You can greatly increase the life expectancy any sewage disposal system by installing a septic filter.
Prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from exiting to your leach field and clogging it up.
Located in the second compartment of your septic tank, septic filters extend beneath the scum layer, taking relatively clear effluent from the layer in middle of tank.
It's external to internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap prevents gas borne solids (tiny particles which float atop gas bubbles) from entering the septic filter.
And, you will never need to replace it - just hose off once a year, or so, while you are checking the tank health.
We carry several models of septic filters, basins and pumps to suit nearly any septic tank layout.
We do not provide free consultation, but you may drop us an email natural@colorado.net with any questions or concerns.
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Georgia Co-Operative Extension Service 540kb .pdf
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TheNaturalHome.com
Consultation service
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click here for filter spec |
Filter housing is black ABS plastic. Use multi-plastic cement when attaching to white/grey/green PVC.
Always prime all pipe joints first, before "solvent welding" with cement.
click here or picture above for the septic filter detail page
consultation with filter basin kit & director valve $895*
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Installing a new septic system or renovating an old leach field and you can not fit a filter into your septic tank (or only have a single compartment septic tank)? Part of the "trick" with any septic system is to have multiple compartments for sewage to settle. Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) that manage to bypass the septic tank will settle to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top. Passive (non-electric no moving parts) - as septic efluent flows in, clarified effluent flows out; nice and simple like it should be for carefree passive operation. We'll ship you this 26" diameter by 42" tall settling tank complete kit and then consult on your septic system for a one time fee of $895. Kit (all 4" diameter sewer/drain SDR35) includes: a threaded cleanout, inlet & outlet beveled pipes, rubber seal grommets, hole saw kit, inlet tee, outlet tee housing, three spare couplers, and a sieve filter with handle extension kit (fits 4" SCH40 and SDR35 pipe). Please note the filter housing is ABS plastic, so use a multi-plastic cement when attaching to PVC outlet pipe. Always prime all pipe joints first, before cementing/gluing. We'll do our best to help with all aspects of your septic system design, installation, operation and mantenance down-the-road.
$895* - free shipping
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click here or on the picture above for specifications on the filter basin
á la carte system parts without consultation
The two kits offered above come complete with on-going flat fee consultation to help with your septic system design, installation, and operation. Should you not need our consultation services, just the parts, we offer the components individually. We are happy to assist with any questions or concerns about the individual part you purchase, but please note that system design consultation is not included when ordering only the tank, diverter valve, or filter kit á la carte.
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Septic tank or settling basin fitting & filter kit $150*
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Septic leach fields fail when poor septic tank design allows drain lines (laterals) to clog with sediment "biomat forming". Greatly increase the life expectancy any sewage disposal system with a filter to prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from entering and eventually clogging your leach field. Our fitting and filter kit can can convert nearly any water tank (barrel, vault, septic, or cistern) into a functional filter basin. Sieve filters extend beneath the scum layer (fats floating on top of tank water), siphoning relatively clear effluent from the middle. External-to-internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap design prevents gas-borne solids (tiny particles) from floating atop gas bubbles and exiting. You will never need to replace this septic filter - just hose it off once a year, or less if everything seems constant the first time you check tank health. In normal usage, the filter schluffs debris, operating as nearly "self-cleaning" as possible. Septic tank fitting & filter kit (all 4" diameter sewer/drain SDR35) includes: a threaded cleanout, inlet & outlet beveled pipes, rubber seal grommets, hole saw kit, inlet tee, outlet tee housing, three spare couplers, and a sieve filter with handle extension kit (fits 4" SCH40 and SDR35 pipe). Please note the filter housing is ABS plastic, so use a multi-plastic cement when attaching to PVC outlet pipe. Always prime all pipe joints first, before cementing/gluing. | 
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Don't need the tank fittings (inlet, cleanout, grommets, hole saw and couplers)?
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Filter housing is black ABS plastic. Use multi-plastic cement when attaching to white/grey/green PVC.
Always prime all pipe joints first, before "solvent welding" with cement.
click here or on pictures for the settling basin and septic filter detail page
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Septic Basin Settling Tank Kit (no filter) is $375*
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Tank shown with filter for illustration only | Nothing beats a nice tank. While larger settling tanks are possible - we do not ship them. Part of the "trick" with tank sizing is that the second or third compartment (in-line settling tank) does not need to be large, if the septic tank itself is sized properly. This $375 (inludes shipping) durable, buried vault is just the right size for your normal family and has long been a standard part every system we sell. Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) settles to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top. A priceless tip is to avoid "natural" or otherwise bar soaps, which are often 99% refined chicken fat - liquid soaps are advised (avoid bleach and borax for better septic tank health). Passive (non-electric no moving parts) - as septic efluent flows in, clarified effluent flows out to preserve your leach field by preventing bio-mat formation. Septic filter/settling basin kit is 26" diameter by 42" tall and includes: tank with lid, SDR35 rubber grommets for 4 inch inlet and outlet pipes (inlet hole not shown in picture), neoprene lid gasket, and tamper resistant lid fasteners to keep children out of tank. Filter with housing and handle kit is sold separate above for $69. |
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Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side are $75*
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One of the keys to a quality gravity distribution system is the injection molded PVC flow director. Even distribution is VERY important, so don't trust old-fashioned distribution boxes (D Boxes) which are notoriously unreliable. Even a minor amount of settling will drastically affect a D box's even distribution. One of the most common mistakes with septic systems is relying upon simple Tees or Double Ells to properly distribute your effluent. Eventual settling & leveling errors as little as 1/8 of inch result in enormous differences in effluent distribution with Tees and Ells (maniflods) and D boxes. The "trick" to septic leach field longevity is good soil health. Designing a system that allows you to switch (every few months) from one leach field to another allows one field to dry out between watering cycles and regain its health by opening soil pores to air. Leaving a leach field sodden constantly creates a septic 'bio-mat' in the lateral line trench that eventually causes a system to stop percolating and fail. This director/diverter valve (flow director) allows you to split septic effluent exactly 50/50 or divert all to one side or the other. Laboratory tests have shown that even at a 1/8 inch tilt, these Flow Director Valves still deliver relatively equal 50/50 flow (+/- 1.3%). New stepped hub design (not shown) allows use of either Sch40 or SDR35 four inch PVC pipe. Material is injection molded PVC plastic and while not rated Sch40 or SDR35 since it is not a pressure fitting, the thickness is nearly that of Sch40. Director valve kit ships complete with threaded access cap, coupler for riser pipe, and flow adjustment handle. Please note that there is a 2-1/4 inch elevational drop between inlet pipe and outlet pipes on this director valve, so these may not work for a remodel where limited slope is available. Your effluent lines need to drop at least 1/8 inch per foot between tank and leach field.
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Drywell leaching pit kits are $169* delivered
Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field.
If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.
Please dont believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.
Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money.
If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.
Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.
Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).
Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by HomeLand security.
So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.
And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery ... at least you can roll a barrel.
Should you not wish to hire a professional to flush your system, please be sure to follow strict health and safety guidelines ... at least wear a hooded jumpsuit for total skin protection, heavy duty rubber gloves and boots, and a face shield (eyes, nose, mouth).
Locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down into pipe for flushing leach field prior to adding hydrogen peroxide.
A "fire hose" is best, which is basically what septic waste trucks are equipped with.
If you do not wish to pay a septic hauler to bring a load of clear water for powerful flushing purposes, you can use a garden hose.
It certainly helps to increase the pressure with an in-line booster pump should you wish to economize, though.
Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no air in the pipes.
Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer.
This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time.
If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat.
Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first.
Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line.
Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines.
Do not use this hole for your drywell location ... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil.
Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour a 55 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines.
Put the lines under pressure for a few minutes, if possible.
Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect.
The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture.
Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore.
If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later.
Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen.
Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles ... and pay attention.
Due to motor freight costs, we do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, but it is readily available from your local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field.
Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.
"How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.
You have to examine why it failed in the first place.
The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.
Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.
Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.
An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits.
These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent.
Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the servicable life expectancy.
A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you can not have too large of a leaching pit - the more gravel the better.
As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended ... lack of venting at both ends of lateral lines is the ultimate cause of leach field failure (after lack of proper two compartment filtered septic tank). Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly. Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece. Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes. Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel). Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate, FREE geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states. |
Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields are a common usage for drywell kits (leach pits). Drywells are extremely handy for repairing a failing septic system - there is really no need to replace the existing system. If you have a failing leach field, you can attach one or more drywells to the end of one (or more) "finger" of the leach field perforated drain pipe. This is an excellent low cost way to save a failing leach field by allowing sewage to again percolate into the soil through a drywell leaching pit. As pictured below, units can be stacked and gravel placed around them to increase the amount of sewage water the leach pit system is capable of disposing.
click here or on image above for the drywell installation detail page
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Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly.
Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece.
Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes.
Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel).
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Gravel-less Drywell Kits $169* delivered complete with full installation kit
Drywell kit
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3 side panels
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bottom panel
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surface drain
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We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call us at 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, Mexico or Canada -
click here or on any image for the leach pit installation detail page
Colorado Only, consultation with septic tank kit $2395*
We do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado.
We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: www.infiltratorsystems.com.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $450 consultation package, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.
Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.
Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.
Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $2395 for the 1250 gallon tank kit and +/- $2750 for the 1500 gallon kit within 50-100 mile radius of Denver.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
Click here or on the picture below for specifications on our heavy-duty professional-preferred septic tanks.
Septic tank size depends entirely upon local building code requirement, which is spelled out in the Individual Sewage Disposal System (ISDS) regulations for your area ("code").
Get yourself a copy of the ISDS at the building department and study it well.
Every county in every state seems to have its own unique regulations, equations and definitions.
Local code sometimes changes yearly and always is open for interpretation.
The larger the septic tank, the slower and more thoroughly it processes the solid waste.
Therefore, a 1250 gallon two compartment septic tank is generally considered a minimum size requirement (1, 2 or 3 bedroom).
While 1000 gallon and less are available, any cost savings is quickly lost from increased pumping frequency and greater chance of leach field contamination from undigested solids.
Add 250 gallons per bedroom: 1500 gallon for four bedrooms, if not 2000 gallon (two 1000 gallon tanks in series), which is code in some areas.
Plastic tanks have many advantages over concrete: consistent quality, specific styles for unique locations, portability without a crane, and durability in wet locations.
Fiberglass should never be considered due to its tendency to eventually dry out and become relatively fragile.
One crack and it will not hold water - time to replace - that's why we almost always specify plastic tanks.
In some parts of the country, local code requires a concrete septic tank ("vault") for its assumption of strength and durability.
Be VERY careful with concrete septic vaults as there is a huge difference in quality from one manufacturer to the next and sometimes from one batch of concrete to the next.
In general, be advised NOT to purchase a rectangular concrete septic tank (square corners).
Vaults cast with rounded ends (hockey rink shaped) are MUCH stronger and they should apply several overlapping coats of waterproofing to inside and outside for longevity.
Concrete exposed to constant moisture (high groundwater), salts and chemicals (water softener back-flush, bleach, draino, etc) will eventually errode, start leaking, and need replaced.
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1250 gallon two compartment tank kit
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click here or on the picture for our heavy-duty professional-preferred septic tank specification detail page
Colorado Only, Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems
The septic system's leach field is seldom given the attention it so richly deserves.
Most people don't understand that perforated pipe in a gravel bed is NOT the best choice for a long-lasting, durable septic system.
Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems are far superior in every aspect: root infiltration protection, optimal percolation, long term viability, resistance to traffic, retention capability for heavy load days, and more.
You don't need to hire an engineer to design your septic system in most areas.
Your local regulatory officials will likely allow you to submit a site plan and pull your installation permits as the "homeowner-builder".
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
In general, budget around $1800 for two bedroom home leach field, $2300 for a three bedroom, and around $2800 for a complete 4 bedroom Infiltrator chamber leach field kit.
Total package price depends upon leach field layout (bed versus trench) and number of Infiltrator chambers required, which is not known until you get a soil test and a copy of the local Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") regulations.
Local building code supplies the equation used to calculate leach field size: number of bedrooms X percolation rate of the soil.
Installation is relatively straight-forward, but even seasoned professionals can get too mired in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach any project.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not venting your leach field properly.
We do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado.
We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: www.infiltratorsystems.com.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $450 consultation package, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.
Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.
Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.
Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.
Click here or on pictures for Infiltrator installation detail page.
click here or on pictures for Infiltrator installation details
Price varies with number of chambers,
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Conventional leach fields use perforated plastic pipes laid in a twelve inch gravel bed. It is not a stretch of the imagination to envision those small holes clogging faster than a three foot wide chamber. That's why we only sell the best! Infiltator chamber leach fields are high-density polyethylene arches that interlock to form a continuous drainage area with a much greater storage ("surge") volume than conventional perforated pipe leach fields. Installation simply involves digging a series of three foot wide trenches (or a large rectanglar bed as shown below), connecting the Infiltrator chambers and then backfilling with the soil you originally removed. No gravel is needed - but gravel is always an option to aid percolation in poor soils. Theoretically, over ninety percent of the solid waste entering your septic tank is broken down by anaerobic bacteria. The remaining sludge builds up until you pay to have it pumped out. If your septic tank is not pumped regularly, solid waste eventually overflows into the leach field where the soil clogs, your field "fails" and has to be replaced, which is a very messy and costly affair. By the way, don't believe those ads you see for "digesters" which are supposed to "save" your leach field and "clean" up your septic tank. A healthy, well-designed septic system works without any assistance. An unhealthy, ill-designed septic system is going to fail irregardless of how much digester you flush down the toilet. And you will likely poison your groundwater in the process - anything dissolves organic matter can not be good for your family health or ground water quality. |
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Please note that Infiltrator has dropped the longer 75 inch chambers in favor of the "Quick4" standard of 52 inches long with a net length of 48 inches. The Quick4 chamber's ability to angle up to 10 degrees allows it to contour along sloped sites and curve around obstructions. |  |
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Flood alarm moisture sensors are an integral part of many sustainable design systems. Sump pumps, cisterns, septic tanks, greasetraps, and greywater filters alike can all benefit from this early warning overfill alarm. Washing machines, water heaters, pressure tanks and other household plumbing will leak, eventually. This flood alarm will let you know there's a problem with a piercing 110dB wail long before your couch starts to float away. This flood alarm's solid state circuitry is built into a 3 inch wide, 4.25 inch tall, and 1.5 inch deep sensor compartment. A single 9 volt battery powers the alarm and a battery saver feature keeps batteries fresh longer. Don't take chances with water damage. Protect yourself with a flood alarm.
$20* FREE First Class / Priority US Mail
click here or on image for flood alarm detail page |
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Sun-Mar Home Composter indoor garbage solution
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One of the worst things for your septic tank and leach field (or greywater system) is a garbage disposal.
Ground up particles of food don't settle out like the should, often heading straight out to your leach field and clogging its pores.
The Sun-Mar Home Composter is a self-contained, high temperature, kitchen waste composting system.
It installs nearly anywhere (size of a dishwasher), recycling your organic kitchen waste into a wonderful fertilizer!
The Sun-Mar Home Composter is the INDOOR composting solution for your household food waste.
No more messy pails and buckets, plus it creates a naturally fertilizing compost tea.
click here or on image for Home Composter detail page |
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