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Septic tanks & Infiltrator chambers are not shipped outside Colorado
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home page » septic system chapter » septic tank detail page ... you are here
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $1525 for the 1250 gallon tank and +/- $1725 for the 1500 gallon in most of Colorado.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $475 consultation package, but we no longer ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past 100 mile radius of Denver.
Interstate freight can easily add over five hundred dollars, so you can always purchase locally available septic tanks for much less.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack, and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
To a great extent, 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are preferable to concrete - plastic does not crack.
If you intend to purchase concrete, shop carefully.
Square corner concrete tanks are weaker than rounded corner (hockey rink shape) concrete septic tanks.
Septic tank size depends entirely upon local building code requirement, which is spelled out in the Individual Sewage Disposal System (ISDS) regulations for your area ("code").
Get yourself a copy of the ISDS at the building department and study it well.
Every county in every state seems to have its own unique regulations, equations and definitions.
Local code sometimes changes yearly and always is open for interpretation.
The larger the septic tank, the slower and more thoroughly it processes the solid waste.
Therefore, a 1250 gallon two compartment septic tank is generally considered a minimum size requirement (1, 2 or 3 bedroom).
While 1000 gallon and less is available, any cost savings is quickly lost from increased pumping frequency and greater chance of leach field contamination from undigested solids.
Add 250 gallons per bedroom: 1500 gallon for four bedrooms, if not 2000 gallon, which is code in some areas.
There are many things to keep in mind with a septic tank installation.
First, the septic tank should always have two compartments - always.
As per the picture below, the divider ("baffle") works to keep solids in the first compartment and out of your leach field.
The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment septic tank where solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent that is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As effluent fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second compartment of the sewage tank and flow out to the leach field.
Without this two compartment design, solids would be able to leave the tank and enter your leach field, eventually clogging the soil pores and resulting in leach field failure someday.
click here or on any picture for the main chapter with pricing and details
Another very important design consideration is having manhole risers above both compartments of the septic tank. When the time comes to have the tank pumped or spray off the filter, you need to have a riser above the opening. Otherwise, when you remove the lid, dirt and gravel will fall down into the tank. Manhole risers on a septic tank (as pictured below) make life a lot easier. You do not need or want to run your risers all the way to the surface - a foot or more of soil cover will allow grass to grow and provide insulation. And don't forget the threaded cleanout - the closer to house, the better (five feet should be considered a maximum distance). Another key design consideration shown here is keeping the septic tank no more than ten feet away from the foundation. You do not want to give grease and fats time to congeal in the line. Placing the septic tank farther than ten feet away from the house would be a critical error.
Colorado Only, consultation w/ septic tank $1525*
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $1525 for the 1250 gallon tank and +/- $1725 for the 1500 gallon in most of Colorado.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $475 consultation package, but we no longer ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past 100 mile radius of Denver.
Interstate freight can easily add over five hundred dollars, so you can always purchase locally available septic tanks for much less.
Plastic tanks have many advantages over concrete: consistent quality, specific styles for unique locations, portability without a crane, and durability in wet locations.
Fiberglass should never be considered due to its tendency to eventually dry out and become relatively fragile.
One crack and it will not hold water - time to replace - that's why we almost always specify plastic tanks.
In some parts of the country, local code requires a concrete septic tank ("vault") for its assumption of strength and durability.
Be VERY careful with concrete septic vaults as there is a huge difference in quality from one manufacturer to the next and sometimes from one batch of concrete to the next.
In general, be advised NOT to purchase a rectangular concrete septic tank (square corners).
Vaults cast with rounded ends (hockey rink shaped) are MUCH stronger and they should apply several overlapping coats of waterproofing to inside and outside for longevity.
Concrete exposed to constant moisture (high groundwater), salts and chemicals (water softener back-flush, bleach, draino, etc) will eventually errode, start leaking, and need replaced.
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1250 gallon two compartment tank kit
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A "self-cleaning" septic filter is the heart of any septic system. The septic tank baffles help keep larger particles out of your leach field, but a good filter guarantees it. Keep in mind that besides the parts, we provide toll-free installation and design assistance with every septic system we sell! That's what makes our kits such a great value. Unlike the large catalog companies we've experimented, installed, and serviced many system configurations over the years. We have the practical experience necessary to ensure your success. click here for link to septic filter detail page |
Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent).
Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank.
Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
click here or on any picture for the main chapter with pricing and details
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
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Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side for $79*
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click here or on any picture for the main chapter with pricing and details
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