The Natural Home Building Source
The Natural Home Building Source
The Natural Home Building Source

3 - Dry stack concrete block walls use surface bonding cement (SBC) for additional structural strength - no mortar between cinder blocks. Click here for the main chapter of our free HTM Passive Solar Design eBook

Dry stack concrete block (cinder block) technique uses surface bonding cement (SBC) instead of mortar for high thermal mass walls that are actually stronger than conventionally laid block walls. Only the first course is bedded in grout on the footer to establish plumb and level for the wall. The rest of the dry stack block courses are laid without need for any mortar between the cinder blocks. This building method has been around for well over a century, so it is nothing new or really even very unique in commercial buildings. SBC was formulated to build million gallon municipal cisterns for water storage. The original SBC recipe used horse hair for the structural fibers. There is absolutely no need for special 'dry stack blocks', but they are available in some areas of the country. Typical rectangular concrete blocks are fine as long as the quality is good. And the quality is almost always very good these days with computerized forming and automated molding of concrete blocks at most brick yards. Plus, you will likely be buying a locally made product since block manufacturing yards are to be found in nearly every part of the country.

Build cinder block walls without mortar between the block and just a few tools

Blocks need not be of any special design. They don't have to interlock, and best of all you don't have to know how to lay block. You simply stack the concrete blocks in a running bond pattern and then parge coat both sides with a single layer of fiber reinforced, surface bonding cement. Applied 1/8 inch thick minimum to both sides, surface bonding cements have strengths that are superior to conventionally mortared block walls and they look a lot better too without any grout lines. Once your block walls have been surface bonded, hollow vertical cores (minimum every four foot and alongside every opening) are filled with ready-mix concrete grout and a #5 rebar for an exceptionally strong heat storage mass. Mortared block walls are just as effective, but dry stack is easier for the unskilled homeowner builder. You don't need any experience laying block to excel at dry stack with SBC.

First course of cinder block is laid upon a bed of mortar on the concrete footers. Concrete block is then perfectly leveled, as this is the start of building without mortar between courses

Please note that solid, poured in place, concrete walls are just as effective, but forming and pouring is outside the skill level of most people. Hiring contractors to build the forms, pour the walls and then return to strip the forms, is always an option when you have money in the budget. Empty cores in your block walls (those not having structural rebar) should be filled with something for extra thermal mass. There is no advantage to having empty cores in the block walls and absolutely no advantage to filling them with insulation. The more thermal mass in a home, the better. Most clients simply order more concrete grout and fill the empty cores while they fill the structural cores, but some clients opt for using sand or dirt excavated from the job site. The only caveats to using soil to fill the empty block cores is to compact well and cap the top of the core with SBC or mortar to prevent moisture from penetrating.

Very easy to set, dry stack concrete block walls do not need any mortar between blocks and courses

One key to thermal performance and indoor air quality is to have waterproof walls to guard against moisture transference and surface bonding cement was originally designed to line water cistern tanks. You need to prevent water from traveling through the home's walls, sucking away energy and presenting possible indoor air quality problems. The same applies to poured-in-place concrete walls - the wall needs to be waterproofed on both sides to prevent water transfer. Several coats of low VOC non-porous latex paint is a good solution for waterproofing the interior of a concrete wall. The exterior footers and wall need a minimum of two heavy coats mop-on waterproofing treatment or better yet, a roll roofing underlayment sheet bithumin, like Grace® Ice and Water Shield.

Interior partition walls are butted up against rear structural wall for ease of construction Rebar comes out of the concrete footer every third core in this wall design

Layer surface bonding cement onto both blocks and then lower into place for a tight fit Check your plumb (vertical level) often to avoid getting off track with a wall

Surface bonding cement is both the structural coating and interior finish stucco SBC can be applied in stages, just leave off at middle of block for best strength

Dry stack concrete block walls using surface bonding cement instead of mortar are easy to build without special skills.

Water and waste lines are best run through stick-frame partition 'wet walls' in the floorplan layout, but pipe can be run through the block wall cores, if need be. Wiring in concrete block or poured-in-place concrete walls usually involves running conduit pipe down through the cinder block cores or forms before the pour and then pulling wire later to all the outlet and switch boxes. In-floor electrical outlets like you see in commercial buildings are an option for electrical, as are surface mounted Wire-Mold® power strips. One of the more visually pleasing and labor-saving ways to run some wiring is shown here with half-round logs routered out along the back and holes cut for outlet and switch boxes. Nice design touch that does not require that much carpentry skill.

Electrical box installation cut into half-round logs facing block wall and routered for Romex
Electric switch plate and conduit box cut into a half round log presents a nice touch to a log roofed HTM

With any surface bonding cement, conventional mortared block, or poured-in-place cement wall, it is key to note:
* do not fill block cores with insulation or foam. This is counter to what you are trying to achieve. The empty cores should be filled with concrete, sand or some other solid thermal mass material.
* vibrate the newly poured wall cores thoroughly to avoid air pockets. These tools are relatively inexpensive from companies like Harbor Freight Tools. Removing air pockets from structural concrete filled cores is very important for ultimate wall strength.
* interior walls are surface bonded, so there is no need to stucco or drywall. You can do a finish coat of stucco to attain a particular texture, though, or use a synthetic stucco mixture.
* always coat the exterior and interior of your walls with waterproofing. Water absorption and transference must be stopped to maintain interior air quality. A high quality non-porous latex does wonders.
* exterior insulation on the walls must be surface bonded with a latex modifier added to allow it to stick to the EPS foam. Reinforce with galvanized chicken wire or expanded lathe for structural integrity.

If you are not familiar with laying block (mortared or surface bonded), after the corners are stacked six to eight rows high, setting the string line is critical. The corners dictate the walls between. Starting from corners, you simply stack block between. You can alternate last blocks, but it is generally the center block and it rarely needs shaved to fit. There are probably as many different ways to knot the line block as there are masons. Xing at the knuckle (full corner end of wooden line block) certainly helps stabilize or you can just wrap the string once or twice around block lengthwise, then anchor back to pin. You can pull in slack a lot easier this way, cinching to line pin, plus it ensures the string line will remain taut and true. While it is possible to simply set the wood line block on corner and tie off with tension alone, having an anchor post pin as shown is a little more elegant and saves the string from being subject to possibly jumping off.

Wood line block and line pins as used with dry stack concrete or cinder block construction to get a straight wall

As with most everything in life, there are at least two opinions on the correct usage of the string line (mason line). Most prefer to keep string line a set distance from block (5/8 inch as pictured above with the Marshalltown® line block). This allows you to use your fingers as a quick spacer - as soon as fingers touch line, you know you are about true for stacking. Classic masonry with grouted courses, forces you to hold the block at center pull / cavity opening (fingers inside block to steady and drop plumb). You can't always be looking down on the block, though, and you really don't need to with dry stack. Some masons like the string line right where the blocks are going. You just have to maintain clearance, even if only 1/16 inch, to keep true. Nothing should ever touch the string line or it is compromised. It is possible to keep the wall plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal) without a string line reference, but the only way to keep it straight (true) is with a string line. Wander 1/16 inch off true every coarse and you will find the wall with a 1/2 inch error before you know it.

The beauty of dry stack SBC versus mortar block is not having to make sure each and every block is plumb, level and true before setting the next block. When you are rolling along with stacking the block, you never stop to check every single block... you lay the course just shy of stringline true and then come back to adjust all the blocks over to the line. A large rubber mallet does a quick and efficient job of trueing the wall until you get two or three courses atop the errant block. This is where you notice the great strength provided by friction with six blocks touching the one you want to move and gravity at play. After the surface bonding cement is applied and structural cores filled, a SBC block wall is actually much stronger than a comparable mortared block wall

A major time saver is to never cut any blocks for the layout so you should always design around using all full and half blocks. The block layout we normally work with is eight inch wide block (8" wide, 15.625" long, and 7.625" tall). Maintaining a running bond stack where the upper block overlaps half of lower block is easy with eight inch wide since the corner turns on 1/2 of the width (15.625 inch long and eight inch wide). When the design requires changing to 12 inch wide block (berming into a hillside) you suddenly need to cut a block every other course. The first course is traditionally all full blocks (12 inch by 15.625 inch long). The second course (as shown below) uses a cut block - one 4 inch and the other what is left over (about 11-1/4" to 11-1/2" long). Half blocks are only used at the end of a wall or doorway opening, never in a corner or on a straight wall run between two corners.

Dry stack concrete or cinder block layout with 12 inch wide CMUs

One key to SBC or any other Portland® cement based stucco, concrete or mortar is to keep the finished material moist for the first few days of curing. Any cement based product needs to cure slow and steady for optimal full-strength and that can take up to a month for a concrete slab. If you want a quality product, get several hand pump sprayers for misting water during construction. Tent and heat the first course with mortar bed and keep it moist for the first few days of set, especially when temperatures are going to dip below 50 degrees. The same applies to any SBC work later. When dry stacking or mortar block laying in a cold climate, you should consider covering the entire structure with string reinforced poly sheeting. The tops of block walls can be spanned with a few beams and clear tarp material draped across all walls. Common roll size is 20' by 100', with 40' by 100' available in some areas. There is also a woven mat material. Commercial projects often leave the plastic tent in place for the entire construction, cutting away with razor knives after the ceiling has been oiled and interior is ready to work. Then the clear tarp just falls to the floor and becomes a drop cloth to keep traffic off concrete.

You can purchase surface bonding material at any building supply center or at wholesale by the pallet from your block yard. We do not sell it and we are not the manufacturer. Our only interest in proposing SBC as a building method is to help our clients save some money while having the ability to construct their own home with their own hands. For an introduction to common dry stack cinder block construction techniques, please take this link: Quikrete® basic SBC Project Guide. This Quikwall manual is helpful for do-it-yourselfers considering a surface bonding cement project. The Quikrete manufacturer website for SBC is Quikrete.com or you can call their help line at 800-282-5828. Please note many other surface bonding cement manufacturers exist - check with your local block yard for details.

We have always delighted when new professionals become familiar with dry stack cinder block techniques. Cinder block has been a popular commercial building material for ages, but wood has always ruled for residential here in the USA. That's what makes an HTM so economical and functionally sensible - this common commercial style of block or poured-in-place concrete construction. HTM design just adds a coat of surface bonding cement to stop water transference and horizontal wing insulation for heating and cooling retention. Concrete and block are very low-tech LOCALLY available products without all the marketing fluff associated with SIPS, ICF pre-packaged insulated forms, special block shapes, and other trick methods. Reinventing the wheel is not necessary... any local commercial contractor should be more than capable of working on the project. Here's hoping more websites, architects, engineers, and building departments get familiar with a worthy method. For a technique that has been around for centuries, it gets entirely too little attention.

Top left going clockwise: darby, pool float, bucket scoop, arch rasper, and mortar hawk are common tools for use with SBC

We do not sell any tools, but darbies, pool floats, magnesium hawks, arch raspers and bucket scoops can be found locally at construction tool suppliers. The same tools used for stucco work are used for surface bonding and parge coating of dry stack cinder block. The pool float is a hockey rink shaped applicator preferred by many to work the stucco or SBC into place. A foam handle is nice, if you keep your tools clean. Otherwise, composite handles are much easier to maintain. Magnesium blades are preferred by many for their ability to 'open pores' in the cement, versus sealing smooth and tight, as with steel blades. Magnesium has a nice feel, being rust proof and lightweight, yet thick and strong, making it preferred for hawks, floats and darbies. Arch rasps and bucket scoops are the other two images above - specialized tools for unique needs can cut labor time dramatically. The darby, for instance, is a two to four foot long two handed leveler that makes it possible to flat-level large surfaces quickly. Some darbies come with teeth for a sawing action as you level across the wall or floor. Others are flat with rounded lips along edge for sawing, smoothing and leveling more gently at the stucco, plaster or SBC.

Dry stacking is addressed on our website as a courtesy to our HTM clients interested in alternative high thermal mass wall construction techniques and not something we specialize in. Legal liability dictates engineering details are site-specific and dependent upon site and soil conditions, local building code, and the floor, wall, and roof construction methods. If the manufacturer of surface bonding cement being used is not able to provide construction advice for their product, it is best practice to hire a local structural engineer. Unfortunately, we are not able to provide such services. There are some businesses on the internet that specialize in dry stacking, for instance from our research links page is the website http://www.drystacked.com/.

Surface bonding cement SBC dry stack concrete masonry unit CMU block wall and monolithic foundation details are typical and common to any size building, but will naturally vary depending upon size of structure, soil and site conditions, and local building codes requirements. Conservative engineering practice is to design SBC wall reinforcement (rebar) in the same grid pattern as a mortared block wall, given site, soil, and foundation variables. In high thermal mass construction, it is standard practice to fill all cores. No hollow cores in an HTM. Non-structural cores can be filled with sand or similar. But in practice, if you are 'shooting cores' with a pumper truck, it is sensible to just go ahead and pour all cores with concrete 'grout' while you have the machinery on site. We no longer provide construction, consultation, or engineering services and any information presented on this website is for 'entertainment purposes only'. Site, soil, and local code requirements are only the first of many unknown variables. We do not warrant information for any errors or omissions. Plans are not presented as construction ready. Local engineering approval must always be obtained first, before building. Click on drawing for printable Adobe .pdf file. Best wishes for your project.

Click on image for Adobe .pdf file of drawing for printing

The roof structure, cmu rebar pattern, and backfill depth dictate ultimate wall engineering design. While possible to avoid interior perpendicular walls and counterforts entirely, it is common practice to have one every ~18 foot when the roof structure does not provide adequate stability. Placed perpendicular, roof beams act as retaining. Placed in other direction (parallel with wall) roof beams provide no wall support. Then the interior perpendicular walls both retain and provide bearing for parallel roof beams. Thus the ~18 foot mark for allowing 20 foot beams to span. Using roof trusses instead of beams has much the same, but lesser retaining effect, but only when opposite wall provides anchor for far end of truss. Sometimes you see short 'stub' block walls (counterforts) used to retain, with wood frame walls extended past counterforts on interior. Boils down to whether exterior wall is retaining backfill against structure.



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Tracking information is emailed following shipment on all orders so client can anticipate delivery date. Custom size shade panels are made-to-order and can take up to ten business days to produce and ship. All other 'stock items' normally ship within three business days. Should you not receive email shipping information, please send a request for tracking number in writing to: service@thenaturalhome.com. Note it can take up to 48 hours for a given tracking number to appear on transportation company website. During this time, shipment status may be listed as "order processed and ready for pickup". Traditionally, this just means the shipment has not yet reached transportation company terminal and scanned after being unloaded from truck that picked those package(s) up. Overdue shipments must be reported to merchant in writing within one week after anticipated delivery date. Cardholder hereby agrees that only two possibilities exist for a shipment that did not arrive as anticipated. Possibility #1) Transportation company shows shipment as still being in-transit. In this case, merchant will file a 'tracer' request on behalf of cardholder with transportation company and they will search for box(es) at all company freight terminals. Cardholder is required to fully cooperate by filling out any forms requested, returning any voice messages left, and replying to any email messages sent by transportation company or merchant. Your patience and consideration is required and greatly appreciated while transportation company attempts to find the shipment. Replacement or refund is authorized solely at merchant discretion. Cardholder is not permitted to cancel order. Cardholder is not permitted to dictate choice of replacement or refund. And cardholder is not permitted to dictate time frame for settlement and ultimate delivery date for merchandise. Possibility #2) Transportation company shows shipment as being delivered. In this case, merchant will file a 'lost shipment' claim on behalf of cardholder with transportation company. A lost shipment claim can take up to two weeks to resolve and unfortunately, the transportation company rarely, if ever, pays the insurance claim. Ideally, we only ship to cardholder, personally, at their residence or business 'home' credit card billing address, but regardless of designated drop site and receiving person and whether or not a signature was required at time of delivery, cardholder is solely responsible for merchandise security after drop is confirmed by transportation company. After transportation company confirms delivery to shipping address, no signature required, there will be no refund or replacement for lost or stolen merchandise for any reason. Cardholder must immediately file a theft report with their local police department for item stolen from property or designated drop site. Cardholder hereby agrees to relinquish any and all right to file a credit card chargeback sales reversal for merchandise lost in transit by transportation company or merchandise reported lost or stolen after delivery is confirmed by transportation company. Should cardholder file a chargeback in violation of this terms of service agreement, cardholder will be held responsible for reimbursement of any and all merchant services processing fees incurred as a result of the frivolous chargeback, which can be anywhere from $35 up to several hundred dollars.

Shade Panel Production

Our commercial grade knitted shadecloth carries a one year manufacturer's replacement warranty against defects in material and workmanship. You can expect at least 5 years of service when installed properly and well over ten years when used seasonally in a temperate climate. Client must inspect shade panels within one week of delivery in order to be able to report any damages. Rips, tears, and aesthetic damage you find more than one week after delivery are not reimbursed or replaced by the freight carrier or TheNaturalHome.com. Additionally, merchandise that has been installed is not eligible for return or replacement for damage claims. Fabric is knitted polyolefin, primarily high density polyethylene HDPE, specially treated for durability and UV resistance. Wind damage from loose panel whipping, snagging, and abrading against the structure or cable framework is much more harmful in the long run than simple exposure to sunlight. Knit shade material should be installed hung underneath, not pulled across the top of cable or framework, to avoid abrasion and snagging damage. Chemical, fire, heat, abrasion, and snagging damage are not covered under manufacturer warranty. Shade panel warranty inspection returns must be authorized in advance and returned freight prepaid to designated location for visual inspection. TheNaturalHome.com will only pay the cost to ship warranty repaired or replaced merchandise back to client after inspection confirms damage was a material or workmanship defect. The following are trade-standard, non-valid reasons for requesting warranty inspection: First, there is no up-down, right-left, top-bottom or front-back reference point for any panel. Panel 'Width and Length' are measured from outside-edge to outside-edge of the sewn perimeter hem at the four corners only. Knit material has inherent tension and flex in the looming process that will resolve aesthetic issues when installed taut with rope lacing. Grommets on one side of panel are unlikely to line up with grommets on the opposite side or from one grommeted pinch pleat to the next. Exact one foot on-center grommet spacing, specific grommeted pinch pleat centering, and special placement on a particular side for grommets is not warranted. Any panel over 12 foot wide may have a noticeable factory knitted loom splice seam without notice in advance since the 20, 26, and 32 foot wide stock roll width fabrics are manufactured on side-by-side looms. We traditionally cover this seam with a grommeted pinch pleat, but it is possible to order plain cloth without a center GPP, per automated quoting form. Aesthetic issues are not warranted. For instance, the White 50% color knitted shade material can sometimes arrive with patches of orange discoloration and spotting as a result of the manufacturing process. This discoloration will dissipate after installation in the sunlight. Shade material may always be slightly wrinkled from rolling onto storage tube or shipping and knit appearance can vary from sample swatches presented and may also vary between various stock widths. Minor aesthetic flaws in knit appearance, stitching, and snags are not a structural panel failure problem and not warranted. Shade material is lockstitch knitted to prevent structural unraveling. Longevity is the same regardless of aesthetic appearance flaws in the fabric knit or perimeter webbing. If need be, one can use needle and thread to pull small flaws together and super-glue sealed. It is not considered a warranty-related defect unless it affects panel performance. Special fire resistant certified shade materials are not available. The finish 'Length' ordered is what we produce by cutting enough fabric to fold hem and GPP. The only time to anticipate deviation in finish dimension purchased is when 'Width' is a stock material width of 6, 8, 10, 12, 20, 26 and 32 foot. Then, finish 'Width' is likely going to be two to three inches less after folding and sewing perimeter hem and any length-wise grommeted pinch pleats. ALL other times, the size panel you request is the finish size we do our very best to produce. Knitted shade netting is inherently difficult to work with due to tension releasing when cut to custom sizes, so trade-standard warranty for free replacement is a four inch tolerance. As measured at four corners, any error of five inches, or more, is warranted for free remake, replacement, or refund at our sole discretion. This accuracy guarantee does not apply to shapes other than rectangles or any panel dimension over 32 foot. Errors of less than five inches are considered for remedy on a case-by-case basis only when the panel has not been installed and can be resold as a new-unused remnant. Special grommet placement requests are not warranted and grommet spacing at exactly one foot on center is not warranted. Click here for knit shade material engineering specifications and product MSDS sheet.

Warranty and Warnings

Merchandise purchased from TheNaturalHome.com is covered only under that product's manufacturer warranty. Client is solely responsible for presenting all claims under those warranties directly to the warrantor. TheNaturalHome.com makes no consultation, service work, or system design warranties, whether express or implied and shall not in any way be held responsible for any customer misuse of Our products or misunderstanding of any and all of Our designs, whether express or implied. All responsibility and liability for any and all damages caused by viruses contained within the electronic files of this site are disclaimed. All information contained within this site and supplied by any and all TheNaturalHome.com consultations, design work and service work is governed by the following information disclaimer. Be aware that septic tank effluent, composting toilet materials, and greywater alike contain bodily fluids and as such are regulated as Hazardous Materials by the Federal government. Such hazardous materials (raw sewage) should be handled only by licensed professionals trained in the proper safety procedures and using proper safety equipment. If you are unsure of the correct handling and safety procedures, please check with your local health department for more detailed information.

Installation and Liability

Merchandise purchased from or through TheNaturalHome.com must be installed by a licensed professional installer and in accordance with manufacturer's specifications and local/state/federal electrical, plumbing, health and building department regulations. Building department regulation requirements differ from one town to the next and it is the Client's sole responsibility to ensure compliance. This is particularly important with hard-wired electric kitchen appliances and hoods, gas refrigerators, septic systems, greywater projects, and composting toilets. Even shade panel installations can come under local regulatory scrutiny (pull permits) in some parts of the United States. Client understands that shade panels are not rated for any fire resistance and hereby confirms that no fire resistance has been expressed or implied by Seller for Merchandise. Client is solely responsible for purchasing (pulling), and coordinating all of the inspections for all of the necessary electrical, plumbing, grading, road, health and building permits for their project. Some of these services, as requested, can be provided to Our Summit County, Colorado Clients where TheNaturalHome.com is a licensed and insured general Contractor (license number 6) and septic system installer (license number 69). TheNaturalHome.com is not an architectural nor an engineering firm. We do Our best to consult on your project, but site specific engineering, load calculations, soil viability testing, and/or custom blueprinting are not included in any consultation service or system package We sell.

Art and Data Release

Client does hereby irrevocably consent to and authorize the anonymous use and reproduction by Us, or anyone authorized by Us, of any and all artwork, digital images, or stories submitted via email, phone or fax. Our primary concern is protection of your privacy. We never release Client information to anyone for any reason, so any use would be purely anonymous. We will not pay a fee or provide compensation of any sort, now or hereafter, for information, solicited or otherwise, that We share. Client hereby agrees to allow reproductions to be presented online or in printed format and hereby gives Us unrestricted right and permission to copyright and use, re-use, publish, and republish artwork, stories or digital images submitted without restriction as to changes or reproduction hereof in color or otherwise, made through any and all media now or hereafter known for illustration, art, promotion, advertising, trade, or any other purpose whatsoever. This agreement shall be binding upon Client and their heirs, legal representatives and assigns.

Information Disclaimer

The information from or through this site and from or through Architerra Enterprises, Inc. (d.b.a. The Natural Home Building source and TheNaturalHome.com is provided 'as-is', 'as available', and any and all warranties, express or implied, are disclaimed (including but not limited to the disclaimer of any implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose). We are not an engineering or architectural design firm. We are not licensed electricians or plumbers. We do not accept any legal liability whatsoever for any 'errors and omissions' perceived or otherwise. Any and all consultation given, or website information provided, may contain typos, errors, omissions, problems, or other limitations. Merchandise specifications are subject to change at any time by manufacturer without any advance notice from Our company or the manufacturer. Product specifications and installation instructions are likewise subject to possible error and may change at any time without Our knowledge. Blueprints, sketches, and any written consultation are provided for informational educational purposes only and not intended for construction-ready application without approval first by locally licensed structural engineer and local building department regulations. Our sole and entire maximum liability for any inaccurate information, for any reason, and user's sole and exclusive remedy for any cause whatsoever, shall be limited to the amount paid by the customer for the information received (if any cost was involved). We are not liable for any indirect, special, incidental, or consequential damages including but not limited to damages for loss of business, loss of profits, litigation, or the like, whether based on breach of contract, breach of warranty, tort (including negligence), product liability or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such damage. The limitations of damages set forth above are fundamental elements of this website, communications, and information provided without such limitations. No representations, warranties or guarantees whatsoever are made as to the accuracy, adequacy, integrity, reliability, currentness, completeness, suitability or applicability of the information to a particular situation. Complaints by Client to any rating agency, company review, or personal referral concerning Merchant or Merchandise in direct disregard of this terms of service agreement are to be considered libel and will be prosecuted as such, if need be.

Consultation and Service

Written and verbal consultation on the specifics of any project is governed by this terms of service agreement, with or without purchase of Merchandise. Technical assistance is different with us because Our staff members live with what We sell. Housing, septic, composting and greywater systems all include free on-going consultation, so We'll take the time to answer your questions and ensure your project is a success. At the very least, We strive to save you money by avoiding costly mistakes, both short and long term. If We don't have an answer to your question right on the spot, We'll take the time to research it further and get back to you. We can consult on the phone, if you wish, but email allows us to much more completely answer your questions with sketches and links to related articles. Keeping everything in writing is a sure way to avoid any confusion with "you said he said" situations later. Our sustainable housing products are low-tech in nature, but their design is typically complicated by the seemingly endless installation variables for unique locations and applications. Any and all consultation (blueprints, photos, written word and sketches) purchased from TheNaturalHome.com are the intellectual, copyrighted property of TheNaturalHome.com. HTM house plans, septic system packages and greywater kit components Were designed and priced for the typical home and based upon the average soil type. Whether or not your local building department requires stamped engineer approval, you are well advised to take sample blueprints, sketch plans, and system consultation suggestions to a local professional engineer (PE). Local PEs are familiar with your soil type and more aware of unique building codes and concerns in your area. Most importantly, a local PE is readily available for the necessary site visits. your PE is then responsible for preparing a folder of notes and details which confirm the structural integrity, viability and liability for your project. TheNaturalHome.com is not an architectural design nor an engineering firm. We do Our best to consult on your project, but site specific engineering, load calculations, soil viability testing and/or custom blueprinting are not included in any consultation service or system package We sell. Communication is intended only for the paid Client recipient(s) and may be confidential and/or legally privileged and must be treated as such in accordance with state and federal laws. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken in reliance on the content is strictly prohibited.

Fiberglass Water Tubes

Water Tube and Cap ("Item") is manufactured for Client on special order basis by an independent company ("Manufacturer"). Manufacturer's warranty and guarantee, and special terms and conditions of sale and delivery apply to this Item. No warranty or guarantee is provided, expressed, or implied by Merchant, TheNaturalHome.com. Merchant and Manufacturer do not assume any liability or responsibility for damage in transit. Only the transportation company is responsible for damage in transit. Before signing and receiving Item from transportation company, Client should demand to see packing list from Item shipment. If shipment is short Item (for instance: three caps, not four) or damaged (any Item defects), refuse the goods until the transportation agent notes the shortage or damage in writing on the freight receipt waybill. Always require a copy of the annotated waybill with shortage or damage noted in writing and signed/initialed by driver.Watch for hidden damage and inspect all Items fully before signing and accepting the shipment from a freight carrier. Client signature is testament that Item arrived in the proper amount and in undamaged condition. Hidden damage or shortage (anything found after delivery) is Client's sole responsibility to file claim with transportation company. Merchant and Manufacturer do not assume any responsibility or liability for Item damage during/after installation. Manufacturer guarantees Item is up to its established standard of manufacture as to material and workmanship. In all claims, liability is limited to replacement of the invoice value of any Item claimed to be defective. Client assumes all risk and liability whatsoever resulting from the use of such Item, whether used singly or in combination with other substances. The materials purchased hereunder (Item) shall be examined and tested upon receipt thereof, and before the materials are used and within thirty days from such receipt, Client shall notify Merchant in writing of any claims on account of quality thereof. Failure to so notify Merchant shall constitute a waiver of all claims with respect to Item, and in any event the use of Item by Client shall be deemed to mean satisfactory performance on the Item and Merchant. No claim of any kind (whether as to Item delivered or for non-delivery of Item) shall be greater in amount than the purchase price of Item covered hereby with respect to which any damages are claimed. Merchant and Manufacturer will accept no returns unless previously authorized in writing with Return Merchandise Agreement. Item returned without RMA written permission is liable to non-acceptance and return at expense of Client. RMA will specify 25% restocking fee on Item, plus deduction for original cost of crating and shipping, plus Client is responsible for all return shipping arrangements and all related expenses. There are no promises, agreements, or understandings between Client and Merchant and Manufacturer not contained in this document. Should you use your own form to make a purchase based on a price quote from Merchant, the conditions contained herein shall be deemed to be incorporated in said order or contract or invoice.