The Natural Home Building Source
The Natural Home Building Source
The Natural Home Building Source

Drywell leach pit kits dispose of storm drainage, pool or water filter backflush, roof gutter downspout runoff, greywater or septic system effluent, driveway & sidewalk drainage, or route yard puddles away from damp, leaky basements

Drywell kits can dispose of French drain, storm water, yard drainage, driveway runoff, roof gutter, or basement sump pump effluent. Dry building foundations save an enormous amount of heating and cooling energy. Drywells can also be used for septic system leach pits and are a great solution for repairing failing septic system leach fields. One of our favorite, most practical products and made right here in the U.S.A. from 100% recycled plastic. Our 2 foot diameter by 2 foot tall (plus 5 inch high lid) 28.75 inch overall height, heavy-duty, recycled high-density polyethylene HDPE drywells come shipped in a handy twenty-six pound carrying case (26" x 10" x 25" box) ready for on-site assembly. Each drywell provides 48+ gallons of initial surge capacity, which is equal to 74 lineal feet of four inch diameter sewer pipe, but ultimate capacity of your leach pit is unlimited. With several feet of gravel under and around it, a single drywell could dispose thousands of gallons of water in properly percolating soils. Additional drywells only provide more initial surge capacity before the water disperses into surrounding grave, which is handy in poorly percolating clay and bedrock soils. At least one drywell per gutter is best practice for roof runoff. Gutter downspouts that allow rainwater to soak the soil around your house do nothing but steal energy in the summer and winter alike. The key to a dry, waterproof basement is taking roof gutter runoff at least 20 feet away from the foundation and disposed in a leaching pit.

Drywells solve all water disposal problems: patio drain, puddles in yard, floor drain, gutter and downspout water, and pool backwash, to name a few. NDS Flo-Well flowell

$169 Drywell kits come complete with soil fabric and installation fittings...
*  Free sanitary tee 3-way 4-inch pipe fitting brings liquid in through top of drywell lid
*  Free vent grate slotted green fitting with riser pipe and coupler to properly vent kit
*  Free geofabric 36 square foot for up to 6' by 6' hole prevents dirt & root infiltration
*  Free Shipping via UPS Ground only in the 48 contiguous United States of America

Drywell leach pit kit

Drywell Kit with Lid
24 inch diameter by 29 inch tall
Three side panels, lid, 4" S/D inlet tee
green vent grate with riser & coupler
36 sq ft of geotextile soil filter fabric
$169*   Free UPS Ground

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Optional bottom panel for drywell

optional Bottom Panel
not used when disposing of water
Primarily for sump pump installation
or when extra lid support is needed
NEVER drive cars over drywells
$35*  Not Sold Separately
ONLY sold with the drywell kit

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Additional three side for stacking drywells

extra Set of Side Panels
adds 24 inch height for stacking
Three side panels match drywell kit
for a 53 inch tall overall installation
$109*  Not Sold Separately
ONLY sold with the drywell kit

Add to Cart

optional heavy-duty surface drain

optional Surface Drain
heavy-duty 7" by 10" tall yard drain
Place in middle of patio or driveway
and run 4 inch Sch40 pipe to drywell
NEVER drive cars over drywells
$35*  Free UPS Ground

Add to Cart

we keep drywell kits in stock for quick shipment by the next business day

Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended... lack of venting at both ends of lateral lines is the ultimate cause of leach field failure (after lack of proper two compartment filtered septic tank). Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.

A single drywell is plumbed as seen on right-hand unit. The four inch inlet pipe comes into side of kit's sanitary tee on the lid, with riser, coupler and vent grate on ground surface. Two drywell kits are installed as pictured, in-series for optimal leach pit longevity. Ordering a second drywell kit for in-series design allows first drywell to act as a sediment catch-basin, with surge overflow eventually cascading over into the second drywell. This is standard and best practice in poorly percolating soils and ensuring leach pit longevity.

Two drywells can be installed in a single leach pit (hole filled with gravel), but it's best practice to have two holes separated by at least six to eight feet of undisturbed soil. Loosen 'scarify or till' soil at least one foot deeper than the base of leach pit before adding gravel. For optimal water percolation, you must avoid compacting 'smearing' soil in base of hole and sides. While possible to install gravel-less, using the soil you just removed from hole for backfill, it always pays to install at least one or two feet of 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch gravel under and around each drywell.

Two drywell kits installed in series

Directions for assembling and installing a drywell kit

Drywell kit comes with three interlocking side panels, cover lid, sanitary tee fitting, coupler, riser pipe section, green slotted surface vent grate, and 3 foot by 12 foot of heavy-duty geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell.

Knock out or drill all of the one inch ports in drywell side panels to allow water to drain freely. Hit the "X" marks on the inside of each panel squarely with a small head hammer while resting the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 board laid close to the hole being removed.

Place two panels side by side and align the male tabs with female flanges on adjoining panel. Slide male tabs downward until the panel edges are level at the top. Repeat steps for the third panel. Set lid cover atop the assembled side panels and rotate until flanges are aligned with cover screw locations. You can insert three 2 inch deck screws through lid into side panels to increase stability while backfilling, but that makes it difficult to remove lid for cleaning.

Knock out the hole in lid center and insert the sanitary tee fitting. It is not necessary to glue this fitting in place. One can send a deck screw or two in from the sides to stabilize while backfilling, but that only makes it difficult to remove for cleaning or future relocation. Then insert the section of four inch pipe riser, coupler and green vent grate supplied with kit.

Venting your leaching pit is VERY important for good soil health and long-term percolation performance. The vent grate (included with kit) allows inspection, cleaning and most importantly AIR into your leach pit. Oxygen keeps your pit dry between soakings and the soil around it much healthier. Stagnant soil goes septic, creating a dense bio-mat that prevents water from percolating into the ground. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running water that far underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be.

When leaching roof gutter water, always vent the downspout to insure against backup and 'burping'. In practice, this amounts to not sealing around where the rectangular gutter enters the four inch drain pipe. Just leave it open to allow air into the gap around gutter downspout.

Directions for excavating the leach pit hole for drywell

We recommend installing drywell leach pits at least ten feet away from home foundation, if not twenty feet or more. Keeping your foundation dry ensures best energy conservation. Vehicular traffic atop drywell should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer.

Key with any drywell installation is to loosen 'scarify' the soil up to a foot below the base of the leach pit. This is particularly important when digging by hand, as you do not wish to leave compacted soil in the bottom of the pit. Soil needs to be loose to percolate properly. Also scarifying the soil on side of leach pit is recommended in clay and hard-pack conditions.

Water freezing in a leach pit should never be a concern when enough gravel is placed under and around the drywell. In poor percolating soils, one just digs a larger and deeper leach pit and installs more gravel to allow room for percolation. One foot of gravel under and around a drywell and then up to the lid, should be considered a bare minimum. Two feet of gravel under and around the sides of a drywell is the most common specification for longevity and capacity.

We recommend nominal 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch crushed gravel for leach pits. Avoid using larger gravel or round river rock. Gravel smaller than 3/4 inch will fall through the one inch knock-out holes in side of drywell. Never put gravel on the inside of the drywell, only around the exterior.

Place assembled drywell atop the gravel in base of leach pit and level. Add gravel in stages around the drywell up to level of lid and then cover the top of gravel with the enclosed geotextile fabric. Shiny side of fabric facing towards the drywell. We supply enough material to cover the top of a six foot by six foot hole. In sandy and silty soils, you can purchase additional geotextile fabric from us to line the sides of the leach pit. It is important to keep soil from migrating into the gravel layer.

When stacking two sets of drywell side panels, stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch deck screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time. Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells.

Backfill atop the geotextile fabric with at least eight inches of native soil leaving the site mounded to direct surface water away from the leach pit area. The more soil coverage above drywell, the easier it is to regrow a yard. In poorly percolating soils, you can bring the gravel around drywell all the way up to finish grade to allow evaporation in addition to percolation. If you are not planning to fill under and around with gravel (not recommended), wrap geotextile fabric around the drywell sides to prevent soil from entering drain holes and secure in place with tape duct.

Sizing the leach pit hole and calculating number of drywells

Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields, roof gutter runoff, driveway and yard drainage are common applications for drywells. It is not necessary to have multiple drywells to dispose of additional water, just a larger hole (leach pit) filled with more gravel. It is a nice engineering touch though, to install at least two drywells in series, per the image above. This arrangement allows the first drywell to act as a settling basin for dirt, leaves, and other particulates, ensuring a long lasting system by keeping the second drywell free of debris. Units can be stacked to increase the amount of surge potential for storm or sewage water disposal. The "capacity" of a drywell system is only limited by the size of the gravel filled hole you put it in (leaching pit). The drywell itself is about fifty gallons dry (surge potential), but this quickly disperses into the surrounding leach pit filled with 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch crushed aggregate. You cannot have too large of a leaching pit when disposing of large amounts of water - extra large leaching pits ensure the longevity of your soil percolation.

Your local building department sets the equations (code) used to determine minimum leach pit size for septic systems and yard drainage.
Knowing the actual percolation rate of the soil is the only way of being certain, so you need to hire a local soil engineer to be positive leach pit sizing. A rule of thumb in well percolating soil is up to about 200 gallons per day, every day, with at least two feet of gravel under and around the drywell. With gutter and downspout rain water disposal, a two (2) inch rainfall is 1.25 gallons per square foot of roof (1 gallon is 231 cubic inches) 1 cubic foot is 1728 cubic inches or 7.48 gallons. A 1000 square foot roof, generating about 1250 gallons of water in a two inch rainfall, would, as a very general rule of thumb, require a gravel filled hole (leaching pit) large enough to hold that amount of water when empty. Based on volume alone, not actual percolation rate of the soil, a 4' by 4' by 12' long leach pit can be estimated to disperse about 1250 gallons of rainwater in most soils. A hole this size could use at least two drywells (100 gallons of surge) or more in slower percolating soils, where you may wish to stack them.

Drywell kits for greywater reuse and disposal system leach pits

Water softener backwash brine and washing machine water should not be run through your septic tank. Septic tanks function by "digesting" solids while detergents, salt and other anti-microbial chemicals slow/stop this natural bacterial digestion. Always run water softener brine backwash to a separate drywell disposal area (leach pit). Ideally, all greywater (showers and sinks) would also be diverted to separate leach pits, but at least divert your soapy washing machine water (greywater). Most manufacturers can provide a removable center spindle lint filter for your washing machine. Anyone on a septic system should ALWAYS trap lint before being sent to septic tank. Only folks on city sewer can just send it down the drain. And like any project... there are Good, Better and Best approaches with greywater disposal in drywells. Good... with cleanable/removable lint filter on your washing machine (does not backflush lint down the drain) you could install at least one drywell kit. Better... 2 drywell kits in series allows the first drywell to act as lint & sediment trap. Best... greywater systems subject to laundry lint, sediment and/or grease from sinks should invest in a full Greywater System with settling tank and filter.

Drywell kits are also excellent for use with greywater reuse systems. Sometimes you must divert greywater away from your orchard or planterbed for simple disposal. See director valve fitting for details on how to split flow 50/50 or all one direction. Fruit trees, for instance, benefit from having their root systems go dry for a few days. As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction! Please note that you should ALWAYS install a settling tank filter basin in-line before your leach field or run the risk of clogging it with grease and fats and filling with solids like hair and laundry lint. You can simply install a drywell, or two, for your washing machine and have direct input. Just keep in mind that all of that lint and grease is going to slowly build up, eventually clogging the first drywell the unfiltered greywater spills into. That is why you have to install at least two drywells in series when not installing a filter basin settling tank.

Drywell kits installed in series for storm water sediment control

Two or three drywells can be installed in-series, bringing storm water into the first drywell tp act as a sediment catch for leaves, salt, grease, lint, or other run-off erosion soil debris. Venting your leaching pit is VERY important for good soil health and long-term percolation performance. The vent grate (included with kit) allows inspection, cleaning and most important of all, AIR into your leach pit. Oxygen keeps your pit dry between soakings and the soil around it much healthier. Stagnant soil goes "septic", creating a dense bio-mat that prevents water from percolating (absorbing) into the ground. Top loading (sending water into drywell through lid with enclosed kit venting parts) also ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running water, especially that far underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be.

Construction site and residential sediment control systems with drywell kits. NDS Flo-Well flowell

Drywell kits can be used for conventional septic system leach pits

Sewage disposal septic systems are commonly designed as gravel-filled leach pits with drywell(s) on smaller properties. Leach pits disturb much less surface area than a leach field of perforated four inch diameter sewer pipe in a shallow gravel bed. Seasonal groundwater must not be a local issue when designing deeper leach pits. Figuring at least a foot of soil cover atop lid for a yard and at least a foot of gravel underneath for optimal percolation: two drywells stacked atop each other, as pictured here, equates to at least a six and a half foot deep leach pit. Please note two critical design errors in the second sketch... 1) Never install bends in the four inch diameter sewer pipe before the septic tank. Bends after the tank are fine since the water has been filtered of solids, but you don't want to clog the line coming into the tank. 2) always install a cleanout in the sewer pipe immediately after it leaves the home foundation. Should that line clog or freeze, you need a means to access it. Maintain 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot drop from house to inlet side of septic tank. Any steeper, and water might flow too fast and pass right around toilet waste. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent can flow downhill at a much steeper angle. Always 'bed' all pipe and tank well, in plenty of gravel. A 6-8 inch layer or 3/4 to 1 inch diameter aggregate is recommended. Gravel ensures accurate pipe slope in trenches since this size crushed rock only compacts about 3% to 5% later. Bedding pipe prevents dips and flat spots where sewage might collect. In a cold climate, it is critical to avoid allowing sodden soil (frost) from touching your pipe and tank. Even in a warm climate, septic tanks are able to maintain healthy bacteria levels and 'digest' sewage more readily when warm. Bedding a septic tank in gravel can makes the difference between having your tank pumped every three years to maybe once every five or six years.

Drywells are often used for smaller footprint leaching pits.

Drywell kits are used for repairing failed septic system leach fields

Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field. If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits. Please don't believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives. Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money. If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide AFTER flushing the leach field lines. Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more. Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($8 to $10 per gallon). Please note that 30% strength and above is DANGEROUS AND WILL BURN YOU, so DO NOT transport or use this stuff yourself. Have the pool supply store deliver for your cleaning contractor. HazMat Placards must be posted in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength.

Always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide, especially the first time. They locate a cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose with jetted cutting head down through the perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat and any roots OUT of the leach field. This is an important distinction - accumulated bio-mat must be flushed OUT of the leach field lines. You do not accomplish anything by allowing the bio-mat to remain in the lateral pipes (drainage lines). Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a high pressure sprayer equipped with disruptor head (full circle shower spray). This is not something you want to try to do yourself. Hire a professional to do the job. The cleanup of tools alone is nasty business.

Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no fresh air in the pipes. Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer. This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time. If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat. Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first. Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line. Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines. Do not use this hole for your drywell location... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil. Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines. Put the lines under water pressure for a few minutes, if possible. Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours, if not overnight) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect. The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture. Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore. If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later. Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen. This is a good time to remind everyone that toilet waste is hazardous septic human waste and must be approached with proper safety equipment and plenty of caution. Wear disposable protective clothes with full head/mouth covering, face shield and/or goggles, protected sleeves and gloves. In a pinch, Saran wrap can be put around arms and then securely taped to the gloves.

We do not sell hydrogen peroxide. Your local septic tank pumper-contractor can purchase and pour a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, when you are having the tank pumped. It is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field, and as with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil. "How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though. You have to examine why it failed in the first place. The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field. Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time. Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair. An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits. One drywell kit has an initial surge capacity of 48+ gallons before efffluent starts percolating into the surrounding ground. That is the same effective surge capacity as 74 lineal feet of four inch diameter sewer pipe. Adding a drywell kit to the end of each lateral line of the leach field is key since it allows it to dry out between dosings. Without air in the leach field and not given opportunity to dry out between soakings, the leach field is certain to fail again. These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent. Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the serviceable life expectancy. A single drywell with at least two feet of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in decent percolating soils, but you cannot have too large of a leaching pit. The more gravel the better for the sake of leach pit longevity. As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!

IMPORTANT NOTICE: It is your obligation to determine whether this product is suitable for the intended use and particular application. Consult your building officials to insure compliance with all building codes and requirements. These step-by-step instructions provided reflect mechanical assembly only. Additional information may be necessary to insure proper results for all applications. Consult with professionals to determine special soil conditions and structural requirements.

Geotextile soil filter fabric for covering leach pits and percolation fields

Never install plastic 'visquene' sheeting or cheap non-woven 'weed barrier' landscaping fabric in place of professional grade heavy-duty woven geotextile fabric for septic system leach fields, drywell pits, French drains, or soil stabilization in foundation drainage projects. Besides longevity, the problem with using visquene plastic sheeting or cheap weed barrier non-woven materials, is they suffocate the soil, ultimately causing anaerobic soil conditions, biomat formation, root rot, and molding issues. Plastic sheeting becomes brittle and tears within a few years and the adhesive bond holding non-woven weed-barrier fabric together eventually decomposes, slipping, ripping and tearing, and allowing sand and soil to migrate into the gravel drainage layer of leach field or French drain. Invest in our professional grade woven geotextile fabric with a full 35 mil thickness and extra heavy-duty five ounce per square yard weight. Built for a lifetime of service, this is one of the only 'hydrophilic treated' materials on the market, with needle punched, multi-layer woven polypropylene design technology that lets air, water, and nutrients through, but keeps the soil out. Hydrophilic fabrics are critical in septic and greywater leach fields where oxygen penetrating into the soil is vital for long-term performance and protection against soil percolation failure. Unlike most fabrics, it features a very functional 'fuzzy' side that lays down against the soil to prevent slippage, making it very easy to install on sloped ground. The shiny smooth side has printed stripes every foot on center, full-length, for gauging trench elevations, rock fill levels, or lining up plants. Click here for our geotextile soil fabric engineering specifications and material MSDS sheet. This professional grade geotextile polypropylene fabric has proven itself over time to be a superior performer, as compared to other '20+ year landscape fabrics'.

Professional strength, heavy-duty woven 35 mil thick geotextile fabric is hydrophilic treated to
allow air, water, and nutrients through its needle punched, multi-layer technology construction.
French drain trenches install fabric on all sides to prevent dirt from entering the gravel layer around perforated pipe.
Septic wastewater disposal lateral lines and leach pits do NOT install fabric on the bottom side, underneath gravel.

FREE UPS Ground to 48 contiguous states - No USPS mail box, APO/FPO, Alaska, Hawaii, Mexico or Canada
3, 4, 5 and 6 foot wide professional-duty geotextile soil fabric
30, 60, 90 and 120 foot long pieces or full 250 foot long rolls

3 foot wide

4 foot wide

5 foot wide

6 foot wide


250 foot long full rolls of professional-duty geotextile soil fabric


250 foot long full rolls

Quantity discount of 7.5% for 2 full rolls
10% for 4, 12.5% for 6, and 15% for 10
In stock, ships within 2-3 business days.
12 foot wide by 250 foot long full rolls
available by special order in quantity.


The primary place for geotextile fabric is above the gravel layer of your leach field lines, French drain, or drywell leach pit. Additionally, one can line the outside walls/sides of the excavated leach pit or drain lines to keep soil from migrating into the gravel from sides. This sidewall protection is always recommended when soils are loose or sandy and would otherwise tend to wash soil into the gravel. Geotextile fabric is also used for wrapping perforated pipe-in-gravel French drains, as pictured below, with fabric on the bottom of trench too. French drains are wrapped like a burrito, unlike septic leach field lines where the fabric is on the top and sides only. Protecting your leach pit and perforated pipe gravel from soil and root infiltration is crucial to long-term soil percolation and preventing leach field failure.

Geotextile filter fabric used for wrapping French drain perforated pipe

"Are we allowed to install this drywell leach pit system on our property" is not a question we can answer for you. We have been providing this same geotextile fabric and drywell kit for over twenty years now, but we do not follow constantly changing city, county, and state building regulations. The beauty of our time-tested design is it's based on a small-scale septic system and that should be seen as conventional to your local building officials. Unfortunately, with over 3000 counties in the United States, regulations changing from year-to-year, and interpretations of those rules varying from one inspector to another, it's never possible to say for certain 'what is allowed' locally. The county building department is your primary source of information on what is possible to install according to local 'code'. Rather than telephone them with questions, you should drive over in person to present plans and possibly get a list of locally licensed soil engineers and excavators. The building department will confirm or revise your site plans once submitted for approval. Often the county inspector will assist you with site plans and design as a service provided for their permit filing fee. If not, they will refer you to a local engineering firm that can visit the property in person and design the system. We provide free consultation after the sale on system kit installation, design improvements, and operational issues, but we do not offer any on-site services, 'stamped' engineered plans, advanced treatment systems, or local professional referral.

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Complete Client privacy and total security are primary concerns. We promise to never release Client information to anyone for any reason. This privacy policy extends to referral and reference requests. Rest assured, We will never give anyone your name and telephone number so they can call during dinner to ask about a product purchased from We promise you will never end up on a mailing list or get a sales call as a result of being one of Our Clients. secured server credit card processing service, that We have used for many years, has their own very strict privacy policy. is not given any access to credit card numbers during or after any shopping cart puchase made online with We reserve the right to refuse service to any potential Client at Our sole discretion without explanation.

Pricing and Payment

With the exception of the Servel gas refrigerators, only Colorado residents are responsible for paying state sales tax of 2.9%. You may be responsible for paying sales tax directly to your state revenue agency, but We do not collect sales tax outside of Colorado. We do not accept international credit cards, money orders or checks for payment and We do not ship into Canada or Mexico, Puerto Rico, Alaska, Hawaii or any off-shore or international destination. Merchandise advertised Free Shipping only applies to the 48 contiguous United States of America. Special Orders shipped outside the 48 contiguous states (HI, AK, PR, VI, Guam and APO/FPOs) require bank wire transfer payment (EFT) no other option, sorry. Will-call pickup at freight dock and drop shipments to a third party (receiver not being the credit card holder) are only possible with cashier check, US Postal money order or bank wire transfer EFT payment in advance. Email or fax 720-293-1705 with full shipping address and order details for a personal quote and payment invoice. Once invoice is completed, We can accept VISA and MasterCard orders online for fastest service or by phone at 800-563-9720, fax at 720-293-1705, email at Cashier's check, wire or US postal money order is recommended since they are treated as cash and orders ship immediately. Prices are subject to change without notice and do not include any applicable taxes (Colorado residents ONLY). On government and corporate accounts invoiced with payment due 'net thirty', the total amount must be received no later than thirty days after invoice date, not the Merchandise delivery date. Late payments are subject to a 2% monthly finance charge accrued from date of invoice. Package and individual Merchandise parts, components and product specifications are subject to change without notice. Special order items are bid on a case by case basis and quotes are generally good for thirty days unless otherwise notified. Price matching offers are only applicable before purchase is made, not after payment has been submitted for Merchandise. We offer only to price match advertised delivered cost for Kobe Range Hoods that ship via Fed-Ex Ground, not motor freight shipments on a pallet. We offer only to price match authorized Kobe dealers. Internet 'marketplaces' and auction sites commonly feature unscrupulous 'surplus Merchandise' retailers selling used, returns, and repackaged 'demo' units without proper disclosure. Unauthorized dealer surplus Merchandise is NOT covered under Kobe's manufacturer warranty and may well have hidden defects the surplus retailer will not cover. has long been an authorized dealer for Kobe Premium Series range hoods and We sell only brand new, factory-direct, fully warranted appliances.

Free 48 State Delivery

All shopping cart items are advertised as Free Shipping with no extra charge for delivery. Shipping and handling fees are factored into advertised total delivered price. Note shipping is only available to the 48 contiguous United States of America. We do not ship into Canada or Mexico, Puerto Rico, Alaska, Hawaii, Virgin Isles, APO/FPO mailboxes, or any off-shore or international destination. Inventory 'stock' items will ship within 2-3 business days from one of Our warehouses. Scheduled deliveries are not possible to arrange, but We automatically email tracking information after shipment, so you can anticipate delivery date. Motor freight deliveries do not include lift gate service to lower boxes onto the roadway, unless quoted with additional services. If need be, lift gate service to lower boxes onto roadway is available for an additional $65 to $100 fee. Street-side motor freight deliveries are not brought to your front door by the driver, like UPS and Fed-Ex package services. Client must meet motor freight truck deliveries on the street to unload and inspect shipments by hand before signing for Merchandise. Shipments must be accepted promptly within three days of arrival at local freight terminal or storage fees of +/- $50 per day, per pallet may apply. Any and all storage fees billed by trucking company are the sole responsibility of Client and must be reimbursed to Our company.

Fed-Ex and UPS Ground

Most shopping cart items ship via Fed-Ex or UPS Ground package delivery service. Package delivery services, unlike a motor freight carrier (see next paragraph), will allow us to file a hidden damage in transit claim for insurance reimbursement, but We are given less than a week to report it. Regardless of how well the exterior of container box appears, you must ALWAYS have the driver note ANY damage to shipping boxes in writing before signing. Then immediately, always take Merchandise completely out of its packaging and inspect ALL of the Merchandise, notifying us immediately should there be ANY hidden damage to Merchandise. Mechanical problems are covered under the manufacturer warranty, but hidden aesthetic damages (cosmetic dings, dents, broken Welds, significant scratches, or popped rivets) you discover than a week after delivery are not reimbursed or replaced by Fed-EX, manufacturer, Kobe, or Not saying that you or your Merchant caused the damage to the unit before or during installation, but that possibility exists when Merchandise is not properly inspected upon arrival. Additionally, any appearance (non-mechanical) flaws found after installation will not be reimbursed or replaced by freight carrier, Fed-EX, manufacturer, Kobe, or Merchandise that has been installed is not eligible for return or replacement by

Motor Freight Shipping

Servel refrigerators, Sun-Mar composters, larger custom shade panels and larger Kobe range hoods ship via motor freight 'common carrier', as noted on the website and receipt. Scheduled deliveries are not possible to arrange, but We automatically email tracking information after shipment, so you can anticipate delivery date.Common carrier motor freight is shipped on a pallet with boxes covered in clear plastic stretch-wrap and is defined as street-side motor freight drop, which differs from small package services like UPS and Fed-Ex, in that the truck driver does not bring Merchandise into your building or onto the porch. Street-side motor freight drop is a basic delivery service, often in a full-size tractor trailer, where driver parks in street while you unload and inspect the Merchandise. Kobe range hoods, shade panels, and Sun-Mar composters are not shipped with lift-gate service. You must unload boxes from the tractor trailer by hand. If you require lift gate service to lower the Kobe range hood down onto the roadway, with what they call a mechanical 'Tommy lift', it is available for an additional $65 to $100 fee. Please arrange and pay for this optional service at time of order. Always check the number of pieces (boxes) present against the stated waybill shipping receipt tally. As with any motor freight shipment from any distributor, be certain to carefully examine ALL of the Merchandise, not just the outside of shipping box(es), before signing and accepting delivery. It is imperative with motor freight shipments that ALL products be unboxed and fully inspected PRIOR to accepting delivery. Regardless of what the delivery driver may say, you MUST inspect fully before signing and accepting the delivery. It is the freight truck driver's job to wait while you open and inspect shipment for damages. Simply looking at the outside of the box(es) is NOT adequate. Damaged Merchandise (that particular box, not all the boxes) must be refused delivery. Once someone signs for shipment, it confirms Merchandise was received free of ANY damage and removes liability from the transportation carrier. We can only assume that damage reported later and not refused delivery, was caused by the Client, and not the freight carrier. Any subsequent attempt to file a claim for loss or damage will NOT be accepted by the transportation carrier, distributor, or Our company,

Returns and Cancellation

All returns, cancellations and/or exchanges must first be authorized in writing by at Client may not ship any Merchandise back until We supply return Merchandise authorization RMA number and address for the shipment. Orders often do not ship back to the same warehouse they shipped from originally. Contact us with invoice number and reason for return or exchange to obtain an RMA number and instructions. No returns, refunds or exchanges will be authorized more than 30 days after original purchase payment date. Design consultation services, DVDs, knit shade material, water tubes, greywater and septic system parts are not returnable for refund or exchange for any reason. Once payment has been made, custom panel orders are cut and enter the production system and cannot be cancelled after payment is made. No return on any remnants or discontinued items. Any authorized returns of Merchandise must be in the original carton, in new unused condition, and returned freight prepaid to Our designated warehouse. Merchandise originally shipped via motor freight carrier on a pallet, may not be returned via package delivery service such as UPS or Fed-Ex. Original actual shipping cost will be deducted from any refund due along with up to 15% restocking fee on the Merchandise. This restocking fee includes the 3% credit card processing on original purchase, which is not refunded by MasterCard or VISA. Please understand that items on Our website are advertised as "Free Shipping", which is to be understood as "there is no extra charge for delivery of PURCHASED Merchandise". UPS, USPS, Fed-Ex and motor freight carriers charge us a fee for delivery of Merchandise, which We must recoup on returns. Kobe, for instance, bills a flat-fee of $40 and $45 for business and residential Fed-Ex shipments and $162 and $186 for motor freight carrier drops. Sun-Mar and Servel units ship via motor freight carrier for anywhere from $120 to $300+ per unit, depending upon zip code and drop site designation. Kobe, Sun-Mar, Clivus Multrum, Quanics, Dometic and Servel returns are manufacturer-direct, drop ship items and may be subject to an additional manufacturer's restocking fee. Discontinued, clearance items are not eligible for return or exchange. If an item is returned without original packaging intact, or is damaged, found to be used, or otherwise not ready for resale, it may be refused and returned to sender at their expense, so always insure shipment.

Lost and Stolen Shipments

Tracking information is emailed following shipment on all orders so client can anticipate delivery date. Custom size shade panels are made-to-order and can take up to ten business days to produce and ship. All other 'stock items' normally ship within three business days. Should you not receive email shipping information, please send a request for tracking number in writing to: Note it can take up to 48 hours for a given tracking number to appear on transportation company website. During this time, shipment status may be listed as "order processed and ready for pickup". Traditionally, this just means the shipment has not yet reached transportation company terminal and scanned after being unloaded from truck that picked those package(s) up. Overdue shipments must be reported to merchant in writing within one week after anticipated delivery date. Cardholder hereby agrees that only two possibilities exist for a shipment that did not arrive as anticipated. Possibility #1) Transportation company shows shipment as still being in-transit. In this case, merchant will file a 'tracer' request on behalf of cardholder with transportation company and they will search for box(es) at all company freight terminals. Cardholder is required to fully cooperate by filling out any forms requested, returning any voice messages left, and replying to any email messages sent by transportation company or merchant. Your patience and consideration is required and greatly appreciated while transportation company attempts to find the shipment. Replacement or refund is authorized solely at merchant discretion. Cardholder is not permitted to cancel order. Cardholder is not permitted to dictate choice of replacement or refund. And cardholder is not permitted to dictate time frame for settlement and ultimate delivery date for merchandise. Possibility #2) Transportation company shows shipment as being delivered. In this case, merchant will file a 'lost shipment' claim on behalf of cardholder with transportation company. A lost shipment claim can take up to two weeks to resolve and unfortunately, the transportation company rarely, if ever, pays the insurance claim. Ideally, we only ship to cardholder, personally, at their residence or business 'home' credit card billing address, but regardless of designated drop site and receiving person and whether or not a signature was required at time of delivery, cardholder is solely responsible for merchandise security after drop is confirmed by transportation company. After transportation company confirms delivery to shipping address, no signature required, there will be no refund or replacement for lost or stolen merchandise for any reason. Cardholder must immediately file a theft report with their local police department for item stolen from property or designated drop site. Cardholder hereby agrees to relinquish any and all right to file a credit card chargeback sales reversal for merchandise lost in transit by transportation company or merchandise reported lost or stolen after delivery is confirmed by transportation company. Should cardholder file a chargeback in violation of this terms of service agreement, cardholder will be held responsible for reimbursement of any and all merchant services processing fees incurred as a result of the frivolous chargeback, which can be anywhere from $35 up to several hundred dollars.

Shade Panel Production

Our commercial grade knitted shadecloth carries a one year manufacturer's replacement warranty against defects in material and workmanship. You can expect at least 5 years of service when installed properly and well over ten years when used seasonally in a temperate climate. Client must inspect shade panels within one week of delivery in order to be able to report any damages. Rips, tears, and aesthetic damage you find more than one week after delivery are not reimbursed or replaced by the freight carrier or Additionally, merchandise that has been installed is not eligible for return or replacement for damage claims. Fabric is knitted polyolefin, primarily high density polyethylene HDPE, specially treated for durability and UV resistance. Wind damage from loose panel whipping, snagging, and abrading against the structure or cable framework is much more harmful in the long run than simple exposure to sunlight. Knit shade material should be installed hung underneath, not pulled across the top of cable or framework, to avoid abrasion and snagging damage. Chemical, fire, heat, abrasion, and snagging damage are not covered under manufacturer warranty. Shade panel warranty inspection returns must be authorized in advance and returned freight prepaid to designated location for visual inspection. will only pay the cost to ship warranty repaired or replaced merchandise back to client after inspection confirms damage was a material or workmanship defect. The following are trade-standard, non-valid reasons for requesting warranty inspection: First, there is no up-down, right-left, top-bottom or front-back reference point for any panel. Panel 'Width and Length' are measured from outside-edge to outside-edge of the sewn perimeter hem at the four corners only. Knit material has inherent tension and flex in the looming process that will resolve aesthetic issues when installed taut with rope lacing. Grommets on one side of panel are unlikely to line up with grommets on the opposite side or from one grommeted pinch pleat to the next. Exact one foot on-center grommet spacing, specific grommeted pinch pleat centering, and special placement on a particular side for grommets is not warranted. Any panel over 12 foot wide may have a noticeable factory knitted loom splice seam without notice in advance since the 20, 26, and 32 foot wide stock roll width fabrics are manufactured on side-by-side looms. We traditionally cover this seam with a grommeted pinch pleat, but it is possible to order plain cloth without a center GPP, per automated quoting form. Aesthetic issues are not warranted. For instance, the White 50% color knitted shade material can sometimes arrive with patches of orange discoloration and spotting as a result of the manufacturing process. This discoloration will dissipate after installation in the sunlight. Shade material may always be slightly wrinkled from rolling onto storage tube or shipping and knit appearance can vary from sample swatches presented and may also vary between various stock widths. Minor aesthetic flaws in knit appearance, stitching, and snags are not a structural panel failure problem and not warranted. Shade material is lockstitch knitted to prevent structural unraveling. Longevity is the same regardless of aesthetic appearance flaws in the fabric knit or perimeter webbing. If need be, one can use needle and thread to pull small flaws together and super-glue sealed. It is not considered a warranty-related defect unless it affects panel performance. Special fire resistant certified shade materials are not available. The finish 'Length' ordered is what we produce by cutting enough fabric to fold hem and GPP. The only time to anticipate deviation in finish dimension purchased is when 'Width' is a stock material width of 6, 8, 10, 12, 20, 26 and 32 foot. Then, finish 'Width' is likely going to be two to three inches less after folding and sewing perimeter hem and any length-wise grommeted pinch pleats. ALL other times, the size panel you request is the finish size we do our very best to produce. Knitted shade netting is inherently difficult to work with due to tension releasing when cut to custom sizes, so trade-standard warranty for free replacement is a four inch tolerance. As measured at four corners, any error of five inches, or more, is warranted for free remake, replacement, or refund at our sole discretion. This accuracy guarantee does not apply to shapes other than rectangles or any panel dimension over 32 foot. Errors of less than five inches are considered for remedy on a case-by-case basis only when the panel has not been installed and can be resold as a new-unused remnant. Special grommet placement requests are not warranted and grommet spacing at exactly one foot on center is not warranted. Click here for knit shade material engineering specifications and product MSDS sheet.

Warranty and Warnings

Merchandise purchased from is covered only under that product's manufacturer warranty. Client is solely responsible for presenting all claims under those warranties directly to the warrantor. makes no consultation, service work, or system design warranties, whether express or implied and shall not in any way be held responsible for any customer misuse of Our products or misunderstanding of any and all of Our designs, whether express or implied. All responsibility and liability for any and all damages caused by viruses contained within the electronic files of this site are disclaimed. All information contained within this site and supplied by any and all consultations, design work and service work is governed by the following information disclaimer. Be aware that septic tank effluent, composting toilet materials, and greywater alike contain bodily fluids and as such are regulated as Hazardous Materials by the Federal government. Such hazardous materials (raw sewage) should be handled only by licensed professionals trained in the proper safety procedures and using proper safety equipment. If you are unsure of the correct handling and safety procedures, please check with your local health department for more detailed information.

Installation and Liability

Merchandise purchased from or through must be installed by a licensed professional installer and in accordance with manufacturer's specifications and local/state/federal electrical, plumbing, health and building department regulations. Building department regulation requirements differ from one town to the next and it is the Client's sole responsibility to ensure compliance. This is particularly important with hard-wired electric kitchen appliances and hoods, gas refrigerators, septic systems, greywater projects, and composting toilets. Even shade panel installations can come under local regulatory scrutiny (pull permits) in some parts of the United States. Client understands that shade panels are not rated for any fire resistance and hereby confirms that no fire resistance has been expressed or implied by Seller for Merchandise. Client is solely responsible for purchasing (pulling), and coordinating all of the inspections for all of the necessary electrical, plumbing, grading, road, health and building permits for their project. Some of these services, as requested, can be provided to Our Summit County, Colorado Clients where is a licensed and insured general Contractor (license number 6) and septic system installer (license number 69). is not an architectural nor an engineering firm. We do Our best to consult on your project, but site specific engineering, load calculations, soil viability testing, and/or custom blueprinting are not included in any consultation service or system package We sell.

Art and Data Release

Client does hereby irrevocably consent to and authorize the anonymous use and reproduction by Us, or anyone authorized by Us, of any and all artwork, digital images, or stories submitted via email, phone or fax. Our primary concern is protection of your privacy. We never release Client information to anyone for any reason, so any use would be purely anonymous. We will not pay a fee or provide compensation of any sort, now or hereafter, for information, solicited or otherwise, that We share. Client hereby agrees to allow reproductions to be presented online or in printed format and hereby gives Us unrestricted right and permission to copyright and use, re-use, publish, and republish artwork, stories or digital images submitted without restriction as to changes or reproduction hereof in color or otherwise, made through any and all media now or hereafter known for illustration, art, promotion, advertising, trade, or any other purpose whatsoever. This agreement shall be binding upon Client and their heirs, legal representatives and assigns.

Information Disclaimer

The information from or through this site and from or through Architerra Enterprises, Inc. (d.b.a. The Natural Home Building source and is provided 'as-is', 'as available', and any and all warranties, express or implied, are disclaimed (including but not limited to the disclaimer of any implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose). We are not an engineering or architectural design firm. We are not licensed electricians or plumbers. We do not accept any legal liability whatsoever for any 'errors and omissions' perceived or otherwise. Any and all consultation given, or website information provided, may contain typos, errors, omissions, problems, or other limitations. Merchandise specifications are subject to change at any time by manufacturer without any advance notice from Our company or the manufacturer. Product specifications and installation instructions are likewise subject to possible error and may change at any time without Our knowledge. Blueprints, sketches, and any written consultation are provided for informational educational purposes only and not intended for construction-ready application without approval first by locally licensed structural engineer and local building department regulations. Our sole and entire maximum liability for any inaccurate information, for any reason, and user's sole and exclusive remedy for any cause whatsoever, shall be limited to the amount paid by the customer for the information received (if any cost was involved). We are not liable for any indirect, special, incidental, or consequential damages including but not limited to damages for loss of business, loss of profits, litigation, or the like, whether based on breach of contract, breach of warranty, tort (including negligence), product liability or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such damage. The limitations of damages set forth above are fundamental elements of this website, communications, and information provided without such limitations. No representations, warranties or guarantees whatsoever are made as to the accuracy, adequacy, integrity, reliability, currentness, completeness, suitability or applicability of the information to a particular situation. Complaints by Client to any rating agency, company review, or personal referral concerning Merchant or Merchandise in direct disregard of this terms of service agreement are to be considered libel and will be prosecuted as such, if need be.

Consultation and Service

Written and verbal consultation on the specifics of any project is governed by this terms of service agreement, with or without purchase of Merchandise. Technical assistance is different with us because Our staff members live with what We sell. Housing, septic, composting and greywater systems all include free on-going consultation, so We'll take the time to answer your questions and ensure your project is a success. At the very least, We strive to save you money by avoiding costly mistakes, both short and long term. If We don't have an answer to your question right on the spot, We'll take the time to research it further and get back to you. We can consult on the phone, if you wish, but email allows us to much more completely answer your questions with sketches and links to related articles. Keeping everything in writing is a sure way to avoid any confusion with "you said he said" situations later. Our sustainable housing products are low-tech in nature, but their design is typically complicated by the seemingly endless installation variables for unique locations and applications. Any and all consultation (blueprints, photos, written word and sketches) purchased from are the intellectual, copyrighted property of HTM house plans, septic system packages and greywater kit components Were designed and priced for the typical home and based upon the average soil type. Whether or not your local building department requires stamped engineer approval, you are well advised to take sample blueprints, sketch plans, and system consultation suggestions to a local professional engineer (PE). Local PEs are familiar with your soil type and more aware of unique building codes and concerns in your area. Most importantly, a local PE is readily available for the necessary site visits. your PE is then responsible for preparing a folder of notes and details which confirm the structural integrity, viability and liability for your project. is not an architectural design nor an engineering firm. We do Our best to consult on your project, but site specific engineering, load calculations, soil viability testing and/or custom blueprinting are not included in any consultation service or system package We sell. Communication is intended only for the paid Client recipient(s) and may be confidential and/or legally privileged and must be treated as such in accordance with state and federal laws. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken in reliance on the content is strictly prohibited.

Fiberglass Water Tubes

Water Tube and Cap ("Item") is manufactured for Client on special order basis by an independent company ("Manufacturer"). Manufacturer's warranty and guarantee, and special terms and conditions of sale and delivery apply to this Item. No warranty or guarantee is provided, expressed, or implied by Merchant, Merchant and Manufacturer do not assume any liability or responsibility for damage in transit. Only the transportation company is responsible for damage in transit. Before signing and receiving Item from transportation company, Client should demand to see packing list from Item shipment. If shipment is short Item (for instance: three caps, not four) or damaged (any Item defects), refuse the goods until the transportation agent notes the shortage or damage in writing on the freight receipt waybill. Always require a copy of the annotated waybill with shortage or damage noted in writing and signed/initialed by driver.Watch for hidden damage and inspect all Items fully before signing and accepting the shipment from a freight carrier. Client signature is testament that Item arrived in the proper amount and in undamaged condition. Hidden damage or shortage (anything found after delivery) is Client's sole responsibility to file claim with transportation company. Merchant and Manufacturer do not assume any responsibility or liability for Item damage during/after installation. Manufacturer guarantees Item is up to its established standard of manufacture as to material and workmanship. In all claims, liability is limited to replacement of the invoice value of any Item claimed to be defective. Client assumes all risk and liability whatsoever resulting from the use of such Item, whether used singly or in combination with other substances. The materials purchased hereunder (Item) shall be examined and tested upon receipt thereof, and before the materials are used and within thirty days from such receipt, Client shall notify Merchant in writing of any claims on account of quality thereof. Failure to so notify Merchant shall constitute a waiver of all claims with respect to Item, and in any event the use of Item by Client shall be deemed to mean satisfactory performance on the Item and Merchant. No claim of any kind (whether as to Item delivered or for non-delivery of Item) shall be greater in amount than the purchase price of Item covered hereby with respect to which any damages are claimed. Merchant and Manufacturer will accept no returns unless previously authorized in writing with Return Merchandise Agreement. Item returned without RMA written permission is liable to non-acceptance and return at expense of Client. RMA will specify 25% restocking fee on Item, plus deduction for original cost of crating and shipping, plus Client is responsible for all return shipping arrangements and all related expenses. There are no promises, agreements, or understandings between Client and Merchant and Manufacturer not contained in this document. Should you use your own form to make a purchase based on a price quote from Merchant, the conditions contained herein shall be deemed to be incorporated in said order or contract or invoice.