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$169* Drywell Kit to dispose of storm water, roof runoff, greywater, gutter,
driveway, sidewalk, and yard water away from your damp and leaky basement.
Drywells are a great solution for repairing a failed septic system leach field, too!

One of our favorite, most practical products... the Drywell Kit to dispose of storm water roof runoff, gutter, driveway, sump pump, sidewalk & yard drainage water and French drains away from your wet leaky basement. If you are serious about saving energy in your home, one of the most cost-effective fixes is to divert rainwater AWAY from your foundation to drywells (our $169 kit) installed in large gravel-filled holes in yard (leach pits). A dry foundation is a warm foundation. Underground pipe (French drain) can be run to drywells along with roof run-off, driveway and yard drainage. Gutter downspouts that allow rainwater to soak the soil around your house do nothing but STEAL energy in huge quantities, summer and winter alike. Our 2 foot diameter by 2 foot tall (plus 5 inch high lid) 28.75 inch overall height, heavy-duty recycled high-density polyethylene HDPE drywells come shipped in a handy thirty pound carrying case (26" x 10" x 25" box) ready for on-site assembly. Groundwater problems, roof gutter water runoff, puddles in the yard, poolside showers, BBQ area sink and other household drainage problems find a solution with our drywell kit. The key to a warm, waterproof basement is taking roof gutter runoff at least 20 feet away from the foundation to be disposed of in a leaching pit (at least one per gutter is best).

Drywells solve all water disposal problems: patio drain, puddles in yard, floor drain, gutter and downspout water, and pool backwash, to name a few. NDS Flo-Well flowell

gravel-less Drywell with complete installation kit is $169* delivered
*  FREE sanitary tee curved inlet 4" diameter S/D sewer drain pipe 3-way T fitting brings liquid in through top center knockout on drywell lid
*  FREE vent grate is a green, slotted plastic, four inch drain with riser and coupler fittings to vent your leach pit... which is very IMPORTANT
*  FREE geotextile fabric lays atop leach pit gravel, before backfilling with final soil, to prevent dirt and root intrusion - 24 square foot (3' by 8')
*  FREE Shipping UPS Ground to 48 states - we do not ship to APO, US Mail Box, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Isles, Mexico or Canada

Flow-well drywell kit

Drywell kit with lid
24 inch diameter - 29 inch tall
lid, three sides, 4" S/D inlet tee
green vent grate with riser & coupler
and 24 sq ft of geotextile filter fabric
$169*  free UPS Ground

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Flowell three side panels for drywell kit

extra set of 3 side panels
stack drywells 53 or 77 inch tall
extends our drywell kit by two feet
free 24 sq ft of geotextile filter fabric
$119*  free UPS Ground

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Heavy-duty surface drain for the Flow-well drywell kit

optional surface drain
heavy-duty 7" by 10" tall drain
suitable for car traffic, it is placed in
middle of puddle, driveway or patio
bottom of this drain is run out to
drywell in your yard with 4" pipe
$35*  free UPS Ground

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Bottom panel for the Flowell drywell

optional bottom panel
not used when disposing of water
for drywell use as sump pump base
or lid support in heavy traffic areas
NEVER drive vehicles over drywells
$35*   free UPS Ground shipping is ONLY when purchased at same time as the drywell kit

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we keep drywell parts and fabric in stock for quick shipment by the next business day

geotextile fabric - professional duty 35 mil 5 ounce sq/yd woven for use with leach pits and percolation fields

The primary place for geotextile fabric is above the gravel layer of your leach field lines, French drain, or drywell leach pit. Additionally, one can line the outside walls/sides of the excavated leach pit or drain lines to keep soil from migrating into the gravel from sides. This sidewall protection is always recommended when soils are loose or sandy and would otherwise tend to wash soil into the gravel. Geotextile fabric is also used for wrapping perforated pipe-in-gravel French drains, as pictured at right, with fabric on the bottom of trench too. French drains are wrapped like a burrito, unlike septic leach field lines where the fabric is on the top and sides only. Protecting your leach pit and perforated pipe gravel from soil and root infiltration is crucial to long-term soil percolation and preventing leach field failure.

Geotextile engineering specifications

Geotextile filter fabric used for wrapping French drain perforated pipe

3 foot, 4 foot, 5 foot, and 6 foot wide professional-duty geotextile fabrics
pre-cut rolls of 30 foot, 60 foot, 120 foot, and full 250 foot long rolls

Professional strength, heavy-duty woven 35 mil thick geotextile fabric is hydrophilic treated to
allow air, water, and nutrients through its needle punched, multi-layer technology for a lifetime of service.

* Price includes UPS Ground Shipping
with no delivery to APO/FPO, mail boxes, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US VI, Mexico or Canada

3 foot wide




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4 foot wide




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5 foot wide




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6 foot wide




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10% discount on 2 or more full 250 foot long rolls of professional-duty geotextile fabric

250 foot long rolls of geofabric at a discount
Price includes free UPS Ground Shipping to 48 states.
No delivery to APO/FPO, mail boxes, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US VI, Mexico or Canada
Full roll material normally ships by the next business day.

10% off 2 rolls or more

$170 - 3 foot by 250' roll
$220 - 4 foot by 250' roll
$270 - 5 foot by 250' roll
$320 - 6 foot by 250' roll

Quantity:

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Coming soon... option to order custom length, cut-to-size material sold by the foot

3 foot wide

4 foot wide

5 foot wide

6 foot wide

Water softener backwash brine and washing machine water should not be run through your septic tank. Septic tanks function by "digesting" solids while detergents, salt and other anti-microbial chemicals slow/stop this natural bacterial digestion. Always run water softener brine backwash to a separate drywell disposal area (leach pit). Ideally, all greywater (showers and sinks) would also be diverted to separate leach pits, but at least divert your soapy washing machine water (greywater). Most manufacturers can provide a removable center spindle lint filter for your washing machine. Anyone on a septic system should ALWAYS trap lint before being sent to septic tank. Only folks on city sewer can just send it down the drain. And like any project... there are Good, Better and Best approaches with greywater disposal in drywells. Good... with cleanable/removable lint filter on your washing machine (does not backflush lint down the drain) you could install a single drywell kit. Better... 2 drywell kits in series (diagram below) allows the first drywell to act as lint & sediment trap. Best... greywater systems subject to laundry lint, sediment and/or grease from sinks should invest in a full Greywater System with settling tank and filter.

Flow well drywell kitDrywell kits provide care-free storm water disposal with a do-it-yourself drywell leaching pit.

It is possible to install a drywell gravel-less, just using native soil for backfill if it percolates quickly, but for best results, place at least a foot or two of gravel under and around the drywell. Six inches of gravel, as noted above, should be considered a bare minimum only. DO NOT put gravel inside of the drywell, as that would defeat its purpose as a surge vessel.

One drywell in a large leach pit is conventional, but two drywells can be installed in series, as pictured above, for additional initial surge capacity and long-term viability, especially in poorly percolating soils. Till soil at least a foot in base of leach pit for best percolation.

Two drywells in series

Two drywells in series, bringing sewage or storm water in through the lid of first kit as pictured above, is standard practice for the vast majority of installations. The first drywell acts as a sediment catch for leaves, salt, grease, lint, or other particulates and is easily cleaned by reaching down through surface vent with a wet vacuum. Venting your leaching pit is VERY important for good soil health and long-term percolation performance. The vent grate (included with kit) allows inspection, cleaning and most important of all, AIR into your leach pit. Oxygen keeps your pit dry between soakings and the soil around it much healthier. Stagnant soil goes "septic", creating a dense bio-mat that prevents water from percolating (absorbing) into the ground. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running water, especially that far underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. Top loading (sending water into drywell through lid with enclosed kit venting parts) also ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. We provide all of the fittings pictured with every kit (four inch san tee, riser, coupler & vent grate, and geotextile fabric). Please note geotextile fabric is installed primarily ABOVE the leach pit gravel to keep topsoil out of the hole. It is not necessary to wrap fabric around the drywell itself when you backfill with crushed gravel 3/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch diameter. When under pressure after installations, very little, if any, gravel will fall into drywell from side holes.

SIZING A LEACH PIT and CALCULATING NUMBER OF DRYWELLS

Residential home sewage system (septic) leach fields, roof gutter runoff, driveway and yard drainage are common applications for drywells. It is not necessary to have multiple drywells with more water, just larger holes (leach pit) filled with more gravel, but it is always wise to install at least two drywells in series, as per the sketch above. This arrangement allows the first drywell to act as a settling basin for dirt, leaves, and other particulates, ensuring a long lasting system by keeping the second drywell free of debris. Units can be stacked to increase the amount of surge potential for storm or sewage water disposal. The "capacity" of a drywell system is only limited by the size of the gravel filled hole you put it in (leaching pit). The drywell itself is about fifty gallons dry (surge potential), but this quickly disperses into the surrounding leach pit filled with 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch crushed aggregate. Please note that you cannot have too large of a leaching pit when disposing of large amounts of water - extra large leaching pits ensure the longevity of your soil percolation.

Your local building department sets the equations (code) used to determine minimum leach pit size for septic systems and yard drainage. Knowing the actual percolation rate of the soil is the only way of being certain, so you need to hire a local soil engineer to be positive leach pit sizing. A rule of thumb in well percolating soil is up to about 200 gallons per day, every day, with at least 1 foot of gravel under and around the drywell. With gutter and downspout rain water disposal, a two (2) inch rainfall is 1.25 gallons per square foot of roof (1 gallon is 231 cubic inches) 1 cubic foot is 1728 cubic inches or 7.48 gallons. A 1000 square foot roof, generating about 1250 gallons of water in a two inch rainfall, would, as a very general rule of thumb, require a gravel filled hole (leaching pit) large enough to hold that amount of water when empty. Based on volume alone, not actual percolation rate of the soil, a 4' by 4' by 12' long leach pit can be estimated to disperse about 1250 gallons of rainwater in most soils. A hole this size could use at least two drywells (100 gallons of surge) or more in slower percolating soils, where you may wish to stack them, as pictured below.

drywell kits repairing failed septic system leaching field

Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field. If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits. Please don't believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives. Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money. If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide AFTER flushing the leach field lines. Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more. Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon). Please note that 30% strength and above is DANGEROUS AND WILL BURN YOU, so DO NOT transport or use this stuff yourself. Have the pool supply store deliver for your cleaning contractor. HazMat Placards must be posted in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength.

Always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide, especially the first time. They locate a cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose with jetted cutting head down through the perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat and any roots OUT of the leach field. This is an important distinction - accumulated bio-mat must be flushed OUT of the leach field lines. You do not accomplish anything by allowing the bio-mat to remain in the lateral pipes (drainage lines). Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a high pressure sprayer equipped with disruptor head (full circle shower spray). This is not something you want to try to do yourself. Hire a professional to do the job. The cleanup of tools alone is nasty business.

Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no fresh air in the pipes. Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer. This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time. If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat. Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first. Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line. Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines. Do not use this hole for your drywell location... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil. Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines. Put the lines under water pressure for a few minutes, if possible. Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours, if not overnight) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect. The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture. Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore. If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later. Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen. This is a good time to remind everyone that toilet waste is hazardous septic human waste and must be approached with proper safety equipment and plenty of caution. Wear disposable protective clothes with full head/mouth covering, face shield and/or goggles, protected sleeves and gloves. In a pinch, Saran wrap can be put around arms and then securely taped to the gloves.

We do not sell hydrogen peroxide. But your local septic tank pumper-contractor can pour a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, when you are having the tank pumped. It is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field, and as with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil. "How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though. You have to examine why it failed in the first place. The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field. Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time. Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair. An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits. One drywell kit has a surge capacity of 48+ gallons... the same as almost 74 feet of perforated leach field pipe. Adding a drywell kit to the end of each lateral line of the leach field is key since it allows it to dry out between dosings. Without air in the leach field and not given opportunity to dry out between soakings, the leach field is certain to fail again. These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent. Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the serviceable life expectancy. A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you cannot have too large of a leaching pit - the more gravel the better. As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!

drywell kits can be stacked for additional surge capacity

Drywells are often used for smaller footprint leaching pits.

Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field.

Drywell kits are also excellent for use with greywater reuse systems. Sometimes you must divert greywater away from your orchard or planterbed for simple disposal. See director valve fitting for details on how to split flow 50/50 or all one direction. Fruit trees, for instance, benefit from having their root systems go dry for a few days. As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction! Please note that you should ALWAYS install a settling tank filter basin in-line before your leach field or run the risk of clogging it with grease and fats and filling with solids like hair and laundry lint. You can simply install a drywell, or two, for your washing machine and have direct input. Just keep in mind that all of that lint and grease is going to slowly build up, eventually clogging the first drywell the unfiltered greywater spills into. That is why you have to install at least two drywells in series when not installing a filter basin settling tank. The following illustrates use of drywells for leach field overflow and sloped lot design options.

Greywater reuse systems using drywell leach pits for overflow of effluent

drywell installation suggestions, tips and hints...

storm water drainage, puddles in yard, septic leach pit, and more NDS Flo-Well flowell

INSTALLATION AS A DRYWELL

Knock out or cut out the 1 inch ports to allow water to drain out. Hit the "X" marks on the inside of each panel with a small hammer. Rest the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 laid close to the hole being removed. As you might guess, this is a great time to have a bored 10 year old handy. Knock out 4 inch port in top lid and side panels as needed for pipe connections.

If you are NOT planning to fill under and around with gravel, wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell (included) to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure in place with duct tape. When backfilling with gravel, install landscaping fabric above gravel layer (as per sketches at top of page).

Easy to install drywell kit solves roof runoff problems by taking gutter, driveway, and yard water away from your leaky basement.
Easy to install Flo-well drywell kit

Backfill evenly around the drywell with soil or gravel, raising the level in stages to avoid tipping the unit. The drywell may be surrounded with stone if desired to increase leaching capacity, but do not fill the inside of drywell with stone. It is typical to use 1-1/2 inch diameter crushed gravel for a leaching pit, but anything down to about 3/4 inch will work. Do not use small "pea" gravel and avoid smooth river rock whenever possible.

Bury the drywell at least eight inches below the surface grade, if not a foot or two. The more soil coverage atop the lid, the easier it will be to regrow vegetation. A common approach in poorly percolating soils is to bring the gravel around drywell all the way up to finish grade. Exposed gravel will allow the leaching pit to get rid of water through evaporation in addition to percolation. These drawings do not highlight like the installation diagrams at top of page, but always vent your leach pit for best performance and soil health.

Drywell kit solves gutter, driveway, and yard water problems No driving is possible over a drywell even with reinforcement as shown
Stacking multiple drywells

Understand that vehicular traffic atop drywell lid should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer. When a leaching pit is placed where vehicles may occasionally pass near, you should always consult a local soil engineer. Rock fill, poorly percolating soil, ground water and/or saturation of perimeter with runoff may dictate an advanced engineering approach we cannot supply you with. The minimal approach taken by engineers is to require a reinforced concrete base/pad under the drywell bottom panel and a 4 inch diameter Sch40 riser pipe from base to bottom of lid (vertical loading as per image above). In worst case scenarios, you might see engineers add a reinforced concrete pad atop too.

When stacking drywells, order the set of three side panels and assemble with the full kit of three panels and lid. Stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time. Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells.

When leaching roof gutter water, always vent the downspout to insure against backup/burping. In practice, this amounts to not sealing around where the rectangular gutter enters the four inch drain pipe.

For occasional foot traffic, the free surface vent grate supplied with $169 kit is adequate. In high traffic areas, the optional surface drain may be added. Either allows overflow of excess water and serves as an inspection & cleaning port.

Surface drain can be placed directly into the lid or a pipe can be run from the drain to drywell. Divert driveway and yard water runoff away from foundation to prevent leaky basements.

Easy to install drywell kit solves roof runoff problems by taking gutter, driveway, and yard water away from your leaky basement. Remove puddling water in the center of a lawn
Cutting out the top for installation of stand-up pedestal pump

FOR USE AS A SUMP PIT

Knock out all of the 1-1/4 inch holes in all three side panels to ensure adequate percolation into drywell. Assemble the drywell first and then lower the optional bottom panel in place as marked This Side Up. Do not remove port holes in the bottom panel (base). Wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure with duct tape. We suggest not screwing lid to drywell body when installing a pump.

Knock out the 4 inch plug on lid if your pump has a center discharge pipe or an opening can be drilled anywhere you wish. For pedestal pumps, like that pictured at right, you can cut out the "U" shaped section on the top cover. Conventional sump pumps are simply placed on bottom panel or atop a brick, if you wish to avoid silt accumulation in base. Attach pump securely to lid, side and/or bottom panel with wire strapping to insure smooth operation of the cut-off float by avoiding chance of tipping over.

Pedestal sump pump installed inside a drywell

IMPORTANT NOTICE: It is your obligation to determine whether this product is suitable for the intended use and particular application. Consult your building officials to insure compliance with all building codes and requirements. These step-by-step instructions provided reflect mechanical assembly only. Additional information may be necessary to insure proper results for all applications. Consult with professionals to determine special soil conditions and structural requirements.


Construction site and residential sediment control systems with drywell kits. NDS Flo-Well flowell

In populated areas, storm water regulations often apply to any project disturbing more than an acre of Earth. Construction site runoff sediment control can be addressed with drywells, as pictured above. Storm water is directed through a series of drywells for construction site sediment containment (erosion control). Discharge is effectively cleaned/filtered of larger particles before entering the street, thus protecting local storm sewers, ditches and gutters. Depending upon type of sediment and vehicle access, you can use the four inch diameter surface vent grate (included with kit) as inspection and pumping port-hole. If sediment is dense and requires shoveling, backfill atop lid (and a few feet around perimeter) with mulch atop landscaping fabric (bark atop burlap, for instance). Note that the gravel bed underneath has its own separate layer of geotextile fabric and it stays in place. If you must occasionally remove the lid for maintenance, you are just trying to hide the lid from view and UV damage. Easy access to stand atop gravel bed around the drywell allows for use of post hole digger to remove sediment. Often only the first couple of drywells in series are subject to much sediment.

$169* drywell installation kit is pictured at right...
24 inch diameter by 28-3/4 inch tall (4-3/4 inch lid)

Easy to install drywell kit for roof runoff problems and taking gutter water away from your leaky basement.

Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate,
FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE 24 sq ft of geotextile filter
fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING*

gravel-less Drywell with complete installation kit is $169* delivered
*  FREE sanitary tee curved inlet 4" diameter S/D sewer drain pipe 3-way T fitting brings liquid in through top center knockout on drywell lid
*  FREE vent grate is a green, slotted plastic, four inch drain with riser and coupler fittings to vent your leach pit... which is very IMPORTANT
*  FREE geotextile fabric lays atop leach pit gravel, before backfilling with final soil, to prevent dirt and root intrusion - 24 square foot (3' by 8')
*  FREE Shipping UPS Ground to 48 states - we do not ship to APO, US Mail Box, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Isles, Mexico or Canada

Drywell kit with lid

Drywell kit with lid
24 inch diameter - 29 inch tall
lid, three sides, 4" S/D inlet tee
green vent grate with riser & coupler
and 24 sq ft of geotextile filter fabric
$169*  free UPS Ground

Order This Item
Check Out Now
Three side panels to stack drywells

extra set of 3 side panels
stack drywells 53 or 77 inch tall
extends our drywell kit by two feet
free 24 sq ft of geotextile filter fabric
$119*  free UPS Ground

Order This Item
Check Out Now
Heavy-duty six inch diameter surface drain for traffic areas

optional surface drain
heavy-duty 7" by 10" tall drain
suitable for car traffic, it is placed in
middle of puddle, driveway or patio
bottom of this drain is run out to
drywell in your yard with 4" pipe
$35*  free UPS Ground

Order This Item
Check Out Now
Bottom panel for setting sump pump upon

optional bottom panel
not used when disposing of water
for drywell use as sump pump base
or lid support in heavy traffic areas
NEVER drive vehicles over drywells
$35*   free UPS Ground shipping is ONLY when purchased at same time as the drywell kit

Order This Item
Check Out Now

we keep drywell parts and fabric in stock for quick shipment by the next business day

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