$899 Greywater disposal system kit is non-electric and comes complete with: life-time filter, setting basin, tank fittings, threaded cleanout, and drywell kit for the leach pit. Passive operation without need for a pump, this graywater disposal system can be installed in any climate. Parts never need replaced.
Greywater disposal system kits provide care-free graywater disposal with a do-it-yourself greywater drywell leaching pit. Recycling greywater with expensive sterilizing filters, pumps, and holding tanks just to flush your toilet is simply not cost-effective and potentially unhealthy. It is much easier, less expensive, and worlds safer to directly dispose of greywater passively, without electrical pumps, into a leaching pit or irrigation field. Greywater disposal systems are common practice for rural homeowners to help protect your septic system health and leach field longevity by diverting graywater to its own leach pit. Our passive (gravity drainage) graywater disposal system kit includes everything you need and comes complete with cleanout, settling filter basin, life-time greywater filter that never needs replaced, and all of the other plumbing fittings you'll need, plus a drywell kit with vent and soil filter fabric for easy direct disposal of your household greywater. We do not provide site-specific engineered plans, but our We have the practical knowledge to ensure your graywater disposal project success in any climate or residential location. toll-free design and installation assistance is included in every graywater disposal system we sell! That's what makes our greywater kit such a great value. Unlike the large catalog companies, we've personally experimented, installed, and serviced many different greywater system configurations over the years.
It is very rarely cost-effective to recycle greywater in the city, where your home is connected to municipal sewer line. Allow your local water treatment plant to reintroduce greywater back into the groundwater properly. On-site personal residential urban greywater treatment and reuse irrigation sterilization systems are a waste of time, energy, aggravation, and money. National Sanitation Foundation NSF/ANSI standard 350 and 350-1 onsite graywater reuse systems exist, but they are complex, expensive toys with way too many electrical components, moving parts, replacement filters, and fixtures that will eventually fail and have to be repaired. Good luck finding replacement parts. And then there is the family health and public liability risk from a poorly maintained NSF350 or 350-1 onsite graywater reuse system when surface watering your lawn. Sterilizing greywater on-site to the point where it can be reused for above-ground yard sprinklers or flushing a toilet is simply not sensible or even remotely cost-effective. Even drip irrigation systems are not practical due to calcification problems with small spray holes on drip lines. Greywater IS, however, excellent for reuse in rural passive, non-electric direct disposal or sub-surface root-zone irrigation of trees, privacy hedges, and ornamental planterbeds. Low-tech gravity drainage 'septic' settling filter basin tank systems like our greywater kit, have been standard practice for generations.
$899 Greywater Disposal Kit includes free design consultation along with complete system parts:
$899* - FREE shipping
UPS Ground in the 48 contiguous states only
As greywater flows in, clarified effluent flows out. Our graywater disposal kit works without any moving parts or electricity and the sieve filter will never need replaced. All of the parts and fittings required to install your greywater system are included with this kit. You need only supply common locally available ten foot long sticks of four inch diameter PVC sewer pipe to get from house to settling tank and on to drywell. Best practice is to place settling tank within 5 to 10 feet of foundation and disperse greywater at least 20 feet away from home, in the drywell. One drywell in a large enough leach pit is adequate for any size residential application, but two drywells can be installed in-series as shown below for more surge capacity and long-term percolation protection. Graywater from your home is piped directly to this extremely durable, buried vault where solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) settles to the bottom and grease floats to the top. Some of the most popular "natural" bar soaps are 99% refined chicken fat, so always use liquid soaps and mild detergents. Grease and oil will build up over the years, but if you watch what goes down the drain, it will be several years before sediment needs to be pumped out. Not having a settling tank allows sediment to build up in the leach field causing the soil to clog with bio-mat and evenutally fail.
$899 Greywater Disposal System Kit
detail page contains complete design and installation notes. A single drywell in a large enough leach pit (hole filled with gravel) is adequate for any residence.Two drywells in-series provides additional initial surge capacity, better handling of bio-mat formation, and best ensures long-term leach pit percolation. Two drywell design is standard practice for poor percolating clay and bedrock soils. It is critical during installation to till 'scarify' loosen soil at least one foot deeper than base of leach pit, before adding gravel. Leach pits are generally placed at least ten feet away from settling basin to prevent 'floating' tank with runoff from leach pit. Local building code regulations traditionally call for settling tank within 5 to 10 feet of house and leach pit 20+ feet away from the foundation.
$69 Flow Director valve can be added to split greywater 50/50 or all one direction.
Valve allows you to selectively reuse greywater for irrigation of trees and bushes.
Flow director valve for splitting septic effluent 50/50 or all one direction
Flow director splitter valves are far superior to distribution boxes or splitting effluent flow with a tee fitting manifold. Effluent flow can be split 50/50 evenly between the two outlet lines OR alternate the flow 100% to one side or the other. This allows one half of your leach field go fallow for few months to revitalize soil, prevent overloading, and reduce the growth of bio-mat. Three director valves will allow splitting flow between four separate leach field lines. And seven director valves will allow splitting flow between eight separate leach field lines. You can stagger installations with an even number of diverter valves, splitting flow into unique percentages to dial-in percolation area saturation. Director valves make for a very professional and longer lasting leach field versus using often wildly inaccurate distribution boxes or tee manifolds.
|Director Valve Kits are $69 each with discount for quantity
comes with threaded access cap, riser pipe coupler, and flow adjustment handle FREE Shipping to 48 states – in stock for quick shipment by the next business day $69 for 1, $66 each for 2, $63 for 3, $61 for 4, $59 for 5, $57 for 6, and $55 for 7+ valves – discount displayed in cart
flow director splitter valve additional images, design details and installation guidelines
One of the worst things for a septic system is to dispose of washing machine water directly into the septic tank. Even mild all-natural bio-degradable soapy water KILLS bacteria - it is the nature of soaps and detergents. Beneficial bacteria is what drives healthy septic system digestion and decomposition of toilet paper and solid waste in the septic tank. Diverting at least the washing machine water to a greywater disposal system will save your septic system from having to be pumped as often and prevent catastrophic failure of leach fields. Every graywater system we sell is a complete kit that includes all of the parts you'll need, plus toll-free assistance! System is capable of handling up to 800 gallons of greywater per day, which is plenty of capacity for any size residential home installation, in any climate.
do-it-yourself greywater design tips and general rules of thumb for installation
a host of GOOD, BETTER, BEST operation and design choices... just like any construction project
Best practice for any greywater system is to install an in-line settling tank before the leach pit (drywell) or leach field, as included with the $899 kit above. Good enough is to discharge graywater directly into a single drywell. When disposing of a limited amount of graywater from BBQ patio sink, pool shower, warehouse mop drain, or barn cleanup area, one drywell kit at $169 delivered price is an economical option. Better yet is to install two drywells in series, one after the other, so the first drywell can act as a sediment catch. With two drywells, more clarified greywater is sent along to the second leach pit (or perforated pipe leach field) ensuring long term viability. Lint, hair, sediment, and fats build-up over time, eventually clogging the soil and gravel around your drywell... but that will take many years, with minimal attention. The less you flush down the drain, the less you will eventually remove from settling tank and the less chance of clogging your leach pit(s). Use of liquid soaps, screen traps in drains, and a washing machine with removable lint filter, virtually eliminates larger particulates. With proper attention to what goes down the drain, you are very unlikely to have to pump sediment yearly, but one should inspect yearly to be certain all is well. The greywater filter is self-cleaning to the extent that it should never clog and never need replacing. During inspection, you can pull the sieve filter out by its handle and rinse off any particulates with a garden hose, right back into the settling tank. Please be certain to wear skin and face/eye protection since material in settling basin is to be considered hazardous septic waste with possibly infectious bodily fluids. Please use professionally licensed septic waste hauler services to have accumulated solids pumped from the settling tank. If you have a septic system at your home, they should pump both tanks at the same time, usually once every 3-5 years.
With moving water, especially greywater with some warmth and biological activity, you don't have to worry about freezing issues with proper installation. Key is a well-bedded tank in plenty of +/- 3/4 inch gravel. In cold climates, install at least one foot of gravel under and around the settling tank to prevent sodden, frozen soil (frost) from touching the tank sides. In extremely cold climates, the settling basin lid and surrounding area can be covered with tarp and 2 inch foamboard insulation and then buried at least one foot under finish grade. While possible to install a 12 inch or 18 inch extension to bury the settling basin deeper, it is not necessary or beneficial to bring the basin lid all the way to the surface. Even in the warmest climates, you should at least cover the lid with mulch to protect plastic from UV sunlight damage and make it easier to uncover when checking tank and filter yearly. The leach pit should never be a freezing concern unless the soils are not percolating properly or not enough gravel is placed under and around it. In poor percolating soils, one just digs a larger and deeper leach pit and installs more gravel to allow room for percolation (one foot is a bare minimum). Key with any installation is to loosen 'scarify' the soil up to a foot below the base of the leach pit. This is particularly important when digging by hand, as you do not wish to leave compacted soil in the bottom of the pit - it needs to be loose to percolate properly.
Our drywells make excellent leaching pits for greywater and full-size septic systems alike. Gravel backfill around and under the drywell is not absolutely necessary, but will dramatically increase the drainage capacity and longevity of your leaching pit. At least two feet of gravel under and around the drywell is best practice. One drywell with about one foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in well-draining soils. One drywell kit has an initial surge capacity of 48+ gallons before efffluent starts percolating into the surrounding ground. That is the same effective surge capacity as 74 lineal feet of four inch diameter sewer pipe. Shown below is a sample installation with TWO drywells in series - bringing greywater in through the lid with a sanitary "San Tee" fitting. The first drywell acts as a sediment catch basin, providing more clarified greywater to the next leach pit in series. Venting your leaching pit system is most highly recommended and also provides a handy 4 inch diameter pipe inspection/cleaning port. Oxygen keeps the greywater drainage pit dry and the soil around it much healthier. Freezing is rarely a problem with running water underground and especially not an issue when you have enough gravel under and around the drywell. Frost does not form in a gravel bed, only in wet earth... don't worry about frost issues with drywells. You can always cap the vents in deep winter if need be, but eliminating the vent altogether is a classic design error.. Top loading through the san tee fitting with surface vent ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent, and geotextile fabric). Please note the geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer to extend the life of your leach pit. Keeping topsoil out of your gravel layer around the drywell is key to any installation.
Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended... lack of venting at both ends of lateral lines is the ultimate cause of leach field failure (after lack of proper two compartment filtered septic tank). Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit. Covering the sides of the leach pit is recommended and 4 foot by 30 foot of additional geotextile fabric is included with the greywater disposal system kit to ensure you install this additional longevity insurance.
A single drywell is plumbed as seen on right-hand unit. The four inch inlet pipe comes into side of kit's sanitary tee on the lid, with riser, coupler and vent grate on ground surface. Two drywell kits are installed as pictured, in-series for optimal leach pit longevity. Ordering a second drywell kit for in-series design allows first drywell to act as a sediment catch-basin, with surge overflow eventually cascading over into the second drywell. This is standard and best practice in poorly percolating soils and ensuring leach pit longevity.
Two drywells can be installed in a single leach pit (hole filled with gravel), but it's best practice to have two holes separated by at least six to eight feet of undisturbed soil. Loosen 'scarify or till' soil at least one foot deeper than the base of leach pit before adding gravel. For optimal water percolation, you must avoid compacting 'smearing' soil in base of hole and sides. While possible to install gravel-less, using the soil you just removed from hole for backfill, it always pays to install at least one or two feet of 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch gravel under and around each drywell.
$169 Drywell kits come complete with soil fabric and installation fittings…
- Free sanitary tee 3-way 4-inch pipe fitting brings liquid in through top of drywell lid
- Free vent grate slotted green fitting with riser pipe and coupler to properly vent kit
- Free geofabric 36 square foot for up to 6′ by 6′ hole prevents dirt & root infiltration
- Free Shipping via UPS Ground only in the 48 contiguous United States of America
|we keep drywell kits in stock for quick shipment by the next business day|
we keep drywell kits in stock for quick shipment by the next business day
directions for assembling and installing a drywell kit...
Drywell kit comes with three interlocking side panels, cover lid, sanitary tee fitting, coupler, riser pipe section, green slotted surface vent grate, and 3 foot by 12 foot of heavy-duty geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell.
Knock out or drill all of the one inch ports in drywell side panels to allow water to drain freely. Hit the "X" marks on the inside of each panel squarely with a small head hammer while resting the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 board laid close to the hole being removed.
Place two panels side by side and align the male tabs with female flanges on adjoining panel. Slide male tabs downward until the panel edges are level at the top. Repeat steps for the third panel. Set lid cover atop the assembled side panels and rotate until flanges are aligned with cover screw locations. You can insert three 2 inch deck screws through lid into side panels to increase stability while backfilling, but that makes it difficult to remove lid for cleaning.
Knock out the hole in lid center and insert the sanitary tee fitting. It is not necessary to glue this fitting in place. One can send a deck screw or two in from the sides to stabilize while backfilling, but that only makes it difficult to remove for cleaning or future relocation. Then insert the section of four inch pipe riser, coupler and green vent grate supplied with kit.
Venting your leaching pit is VERY important for good soil health and long-term percolation performance. The vent grate (included with kit) allows inspection, cleaning and most importantly AIR into your leach pit. Oxygen keeps your pit dry between soakings and the soil around it much healthier. Stagnant soil goes septic, creating a dense bio-mat that prevents water from percolating into the ground. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running water that far underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be.
When leaching roof gutter water, always vent the downspout to insure against backup and 'burping'. In practice, this amounts to not sealing around where the rectangular gutter enters the four inch drain pipe. Just leave it open to allow air into the gap around gutter downspout.
directions for excavating the leach pit hole for drywell...
We recommend installing drywell leach pits at least ten feet away from home foundation, if not twenty feet or more. Keeping your foundation dry ensures best energy conservation. Vehicular traffic atop drywell should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer.
Key with any drywell installation is to loosen 'scarify' the soil up to a foot below the base of the leach pit. This is particularly important when digging by hand, as you do not wish to leave compacted soil in the bottom of the pit. Soil needs to be loose to percolate properly. Also scarifying the soil on side of leach pit is recommended in clay and hard-pack conditions.
Water freezing in a leach pit should never be a concern when enough gravel is placed under and around the drywell. In poor percolating soils, one just digs a larger and deeper leach pit and installs more gravel to allow room for percolation. One foot of gravel under and around a drywell and then up to the lid, should be considered a bare minimum. Two feet of gravel under and around the sides of a drywell is the most common specification for longevity and capacity.
We recommend nominal 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch crushed gravel for leach pits. Avoid using larger gravel or round river rock. Gravel smaller than 3/4 inch will fall through the one inch knock-out holes in side of drywell. Never put gravel on the inside of the drywell, only around the exterior.
Place assembled drywell atop the gravel in base of leach pit and level. Add gravel in stages around the drywell up to level of lid and then cover the top of gravel with the enclosed geotextile fabric. We supply enough material to cover the top of a six foot by six foot hole. In sandy and silty soils, you can purchase additional geotextile fabric from us to line the sides of the leach pit. It is important to keep soil from migrating into the gravel layer.
When stacking two sets of drywell side panels, stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch deck screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time. Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells.
Backfill atop the geotextile fabric with at least eight inches of native soil leaving the site mounded to direct surface water away from the leach pit area. The more soil coverage above drywell, the easier it is to regrow a yard. In poorly percolating soils, you can bring the gravel around drywell all the way up to finish grade to allow evaporation in addition to percolation. If you are not planning to fill under and around with gravel (not recommended), wrap geotextile fabric around the drywell sides to prevent soil from entering drain holes and secure in place with tape duct.
Geotextile soil filter fabric for covering leach pits and percolation fields
Never install plastic 'visquene' sheeting or cheap non-woven 'weed barrier' landscaping fabric in place of professional grade heavy-duty woven geotextile fabric for septic system leach fields, drywell pits, French drains, or soil stabilization in foundation drainage projects. Besides longevity, the problem with using visquene plastic sheeting or cheap weed barrier non-woven materials, is they suffocate the soil, ultimately causing anaerobic soil conditions, biomat formation, root rot, and molding issues. Plastic sheeting becomes brittle and tears within a few years and the adhesive bond holding non-woven weed-barrier fabric together eventually decomposes, slipping, ripping and tearing, and allowing sand and soil to migrate into the gravel drainage layer of leach field or French drain. Invest in our professional grade woven geotextile fabric with a full 35 mil thickness and extra heavy-duty five ounce per square yard weight. Built for a lifetime of service, this is one of the only 'hydrophilic treated' materials on the market, with needle punched, multi-layer woven polypropylene design technology that lets air, water, and nutrients through, but keeps the soil out. Hydrophilic fabrics are critical in septic and greywater leach fields where oxygen penetrating into the soil is vital for long-term performance and protection against soil percolation failure. Unlike most fabrics, it features a very functional 'fuzzy' side that lays down against the soil to prevent slippage, making it very easy to install on sloped ground. The shiny smooth side has printed stripes every foot on center, full-length, for gauging trench elevations, rock fill levels, or lining up plants. Click here for our geotextile soil fabric engineering specifications and material MSDS sheet. This professional grade geotextile polypropylene fabric has proven itself over time to be a superior performer, as compared to other '20+ year landscape fabrics'.
Professional strength, heavy-duty woven 35 mil thick geotextile fabric is hydrophilic treated to allow air, water, and nutrients through its needle punched, multi-layer technology construction.French drain trenches install fabric on all sides to prevent dirt from entering the gravel layer around perforated pipe.Septic wastewater disposal lateral lines and leach pits do NOT install fabric on the bottom side, underneath gravel. FREE UPS Ground to 48 contiguous states – No USPS mail box, APO/FPO, Alaska, Hawaii, Mexico or Canada
3, 4, 5 and 6 foot wide professional-duty geotextile soil fabric 30, 60, 90 and 120 foot long pieces or full 250 foot long rolls
|3 Foot Wide
||4 Foot Wide
||5 Foot Wide
||6 Foot Wide
250 foot long full rolls of professional-duty geotextile soil fabric
|Quantity discount of 7.5% for 2 full rolls10% for 4, 12.5% for 6, and 15% for 10 In stock, ships within 2-3 business days. 12 foot wide by 250 foot long full rolls available by special order in quantity.|
The primary place for geotextile fabric is above the gravel layer of your leach field lines, French drain, or drywell leach pit. Additionally, one can line the outside walls/sides of the excavated leach pit or drain lines to keep soil from migrating into the gravel from sides. This sidewall protection is always recommended when soils are loose or sandy and would otherwise tend to wash soil into the gravel. Geotextile fabric is also used for wrapping perforated pipe-in-gravel French drains, as pictured below, with fabric on the bottom of trench too. French drains are wrapped like a burrito, unlike septic leach field lines where the fabric is on the top and sides only. Protecting your leach pit and perforated pipe gravel from soil and root infiltration is crucial to long-term soil percolation and preventing leach field failure.
SIZING A LEACH PIT and CALCULATING NUMBER OF DRYWELLS
Residential home sewage system (septic and greywater) leach fields, roof gutter runoff, driveway and yard drainage are common applications for drywells. It is not necessary to have multiple drywells, to dispose of more water, but you do need a larger hole in the ground (leach pit) filled with more gravel. And it is always a nice engineering touch to install at least two drywells in series, as per the sketch above. First drywell acts as a settling basin for dirt, leaves and other particulates, ensuring a long lasting system, by keeping the second drywell free of debris. Drywells can be stacked to increase surge potential with "capacity" limited ONLY by the size of the gravel filled hole (leaching pit). The drywell itself provides fifty gallons of dry (surge potential) but this quickly disperses into the surrounding leach pit filled with 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch crushed aggregate.
Please note you can't have too large of a leaching pit. When disposing of huge amounts of water, extra-large leaching pits ensure longevity of soil percolation. Local building department sets/dictates the equation (regulation code) used to determine minimum leach pit size for septic systems and yard drainage. A rule of thumb in well percolating soil is up to about 200 gallons per day, every day, with MINIMUM of One (1) foot of gravel under and around the drywell. Knowing the actual percolation rate of the soil is the only way of being certain, but 100 gallons of surge in slower percolating soils should be enough for most residential installations... in most soils. When ground water (seasonal or otherwise) is not present in the leach pit area, stacking drywells (deeper leach pit) is an easy means to increase initial surge capacity - 50 gallons per drywell.
As with any kit purchased from us, we can certainly work with you on specific site needs after purchase. For instance, the main consideration in a cold climate is keeping frost from penetrating down into soil surrounding the settling tank. Typically, this entails covering the area around tank (surface above) for at least three to four feet with a heavy duty tarp (8' by 8' or 10' by 10' size) to prevent moisture (frost) from being driven down to surrounding soil. Then place an at least 2 inch thick sheet of blueboard EPS foam insulation (4' by 4' minimum) directly above tank. You cut hole in center of sheet to slip circle of foam out for gaining access to settling tank lid. Dry soil is key to maintaining warmth since frost only penetrates down into moist soil. The drywell leaching pit and pipe to and from tank will not be affected by cold since it is running water, but laying the pipe in a thick gravel bed is standard practice for preventing frost from contacting the pipe (same applies to tank). Burying the system deeper is always an option to help in cold climates, but a foot or two for the tank is typical. The beauty of our greywater disposal system is that you can very easily convert it to a greywater recycling system later. A row of privacy bushes or a small orchard is typically the best reuse of greywater - a fruit tree can easily uptake 15 plus gallons per day and the pipes do not need to be pressurized. Please take this link to a detail page with typical greywater leach field sketches.
" We have been designing and building greywater systems for well over twenty years. Should you have questions during installation or afterwards, we are here for you. Kits are easy to install with pre-cut pipe and all fittings individually hand labeled. Fittings are standard 4" sewer & drain for ease of replacement and expansion. Everything is tried and true - no mechanical parts, so it should last a lifetime. "
Our greywater filter has 80 lineal feet of filtration area for up to 800 gallons per day treatment volume. A built-in gas deflector on bottom of filter provides secondary 1/2 inch filtration to prevent larger solids from entering the filter area inside. The patented flow reduces the trapping of solids in the filter by allowing solids to slough off and fall back into the tank for further digestion. 1/16 inch filtration slots, rather than mesh screens, provide much less surface area for solids to attach and promote the sloughing action. Filters feature a locking tab that securely locks the filter into its housing tee, preventing any chance of 'floating' by the filter and allowing solids to pass by. This design has served our clients well for over twenty years with nothing but positive feedback and great results. Very easy to clean when you inspect the greywater settling tank and filter never needs replacing.
This "self-cleaning" filter is the heart of our passive greywater systems. Keep in mind that besides the parts, our toll-free installation assistance is included in every graywater system we sell! That's what makes our kits such a great value. Unlike the large catalog companies we've experimented, installed, and serviced many system configurations over the years. We have the practical experience necessary to ensure your success and pack everything you will need with your kit, nicely labeled.
Graywater irrigation systems can be very simple and non-electric when the top of your planterbed (leach field) is below the elevation of the home's effluent pipe. When used as the first settling tank of your greywater system, this filter basin acts as a grease trap. Typically, a drop tee is used to introduce incoming greywater subsurface (see sketch above) and not a direct discharge inlet pipe (as shown to the left). The direct discharge pictured here is only recommended when installing the basin in-lineafter an initial settling/surge tank.
Your 41 inch tall by 26 inch diameter filter basin includes an unauthorized entry resistant lid, greywater filter, and every gasket and pipe fitting you'll need to put it all together. Please note that 12 inch and 18 inch riser extensions are available if your filter basin needs to be buried deeper.
This 10 piece hole saw kit is included for free with our passive greywater kits. Every installation tends to be unique and this free hole saw kit allows you to put the inlet, outlet, and inspection holes right where you need them. A nice touch that we continue to include for no extra charge with every greywater kit. Trying to cut a round hole by hand or with a jigsaw can be a challenge, at best.
main greywater chapter with complete system parts and pricing
"Are we allowed to install this septic system on our property" is not a question we can answer for you. We have been providing much the same passive (non electric) greywater system parts for over twenty years now, but we do not follow constantly changing city, county, and state building regulations. Unfortunately, with over 3000 counties in the United States, regulations changing from year-to-year, and interpretations of those rules varying from one inspector to another, it's never possible to say for certain 'what is allowed' locally. The county building department is your primary source of information on what is possible to install according to local 'code'. Rather than telephone them with questions, you should drive over in person and get a copy of their local Individual Sewage Disposal System ISDS Regs and also get a list of locally licensed soil engineers. The building department will confirm or revise your site plans once submitted for approval. Often the county inspector will assist you with site plans and design as a service provided for their permit filing fee. If not, they will refer you to a local engineering firm that can visit the property in person and design the system. We provide free consultation after the sale on installation procedures, system design improvements, and operational issues, but we do not provide any soil testing, on-site services, 'stamped' engineered plans, or 'advanced treatment' systems.