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Septic tanks, sewage filters, settling basins, drywell leach pit kits, director valves, and Infiltrator chamber sewage disposal systems with complete installation and design help. Plus, some very handy tips and tricks for fixing a failed septic system leach field!
The wastewater your home produces is referred to as 'effluent' and consists of blackwater (toilet and garbage disposal waste) and greywater (shower, sink and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your household plumbing into a watertight, underground, two compartment septic tank.
Solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top of the first compartment.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As incoming sewage from the house fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second chamber of the septic tank and flow out to the leach field or leach pit.
The typical leach field is a series of rock filled trenches where effluent is further treated as it slowly percolates through the soil.
A leach pit is a deeper, larger hole filled with rock for disposing of wastewater in a smaller footprint.
Not as effective as a larger leach field, where sewage percolates slowly over a larger area, leach pits are an alternative for smaller properties only where high seasonal ground water is not present.
If allowed by local building department, it is best practice to divert your household greywater (washing machine, at least, plus sinks and showers) to a separate leaching area.
Greywater contains soaps designed to kill bacteria (clean and disinfect things) and thus discourage optimal septic tank function.
You want to encourage helpful good bacteria (digesting anaerobic cultures) to grow in your septic tank and organically treat the waste, not kill helpful bacteria with detergent laden graywater.
"Are we allowed to install this septic system on our property" is not a question we can answer for you. We have been providing much the same passive (non electric) septic system parts for over twenty years now, but we do not follow constantly changing city, county, and state building regulations. Unfortunately, with over 3000 counties in the United States, regulations changing from year-to-year, and interpretations of those rules varying from one inspector to another, it's never possible to say for certain 'what is allowed' locally. The county building department is your primary source of information on what is possible to install according to local 'code'. Rather than telephone them with questions, you should drive over in person and get a copy of their local Individual Sewage Disposal System ISDS Regs and also get a list of locally licensed soil engineers. The building department will confirm or revise your site plans once submitted for approval. Often the county inspector will assist you with site plans and design as a service provided for their permit filing fee. If not, they will refer you to a local engineering firm that can visit the property in person and design the system. We provide free consultation after the sale on installation procedures, system design improvements, and operational issues, but we do not provide any soil testing, on-site services, 'stamped' engineered plans, or 'advanced treatment' systems.
Conventional septic tank with leach field guidelines along with some tips and tricks...
Septic tank sizing is best determined by usage and how long effluent stays in the tank before it goes out to the leach field.
Consider a thirty hour sewage treatment retention time to be the minimum, with larger tanks allowing more time for solids to settle
on the bottom and grease to float to the top. Less daily flow means more clarified liquid receiving treatment prior to disposal in the leach field.
Best practice is to install at least a 1250 net gallon two-compartment tank.
In the long run, you save money by having the septic tank pumped less often and the leach field is less subject to bio-mat formation due to untreated, less-clarified effluent.
conventional septic system manual
In most of the country, local regulatory officials allow homeowner-builders to submit a site plan and pull their own installation permits. Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system! Stamped, engineered, septic system plans are typically not necessary unless your property percolation test was extreme (greater than 60 minutes per inch or less than 5 minutes per inch); or the site has seasonal groundwater; or there is bedrock or unsuitable soil less than four feet below the proposed leach field; or if the ground slope is in excess of 30% in the area of the proposed leach field. Engineered systems require a local professional engineer to approve (stamp) your site's septic tank and leach field plans. Anyone can draw up their own septic system plan, but legal liability then lies exclusively with your regulatory officials and they often defer to a licensed and insured local engineer. This releases the local government from future legal liability for your extreme septic system's failure. What is code in my area? is a uniquely local question and often changes yearly and varies from county to county in some states, so you need to check and see what is required on your property. Please note that we are not an engineering firm and we do not supply stamped, engineered plans, but we do consult for no charge with purchase of any complete septic system. Even professionals with 30 years in the business can get too tied up in 'how we've always done it' to realize simple improvements can make a huge difference in system performance and longevity. What follows is a very general guide to the average Individual Sewage Disposal System ISDS guidelines (code) in most of the country.
When you apply for your building permit, the local health department official will most likely help you design the sewage disposal system and may even offer to have their office perform a soil test (LTAR) in lieu of a percolation test.
This involves digging a soil profile hole which is generally an eight foot deep trench in the area of the leach field.
Most building departments wisely require a visual confirmation that there are no problematic soil conditions, groundwater, or bedrock in the area where you intend to put the leach field.
But check with your local officials, as you may only need to provide a site plan survey (ILC) of your property (to establish setbacks from buildings, wells, streams, and property lines) and fill out some forms.
Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank 'setbacks' with tank 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house, at least 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property lines. Or whatever the local regulatory officials require, so always check with the county first for minimum setbacks.
The home's sewer line drain pipe needs to slope 1/4 inch per foot downhill to the inlet side of the septic tank and the outlet pipe needs to flow downhill at least 1/8 inch per foot downhill to the leach field, where the septic tank effluent enters a manifold or distribution D box. Beyond the manifold or D box the leach field trenches (for an Infiltrator chamber system) are excavated perfectly level at a depth of at least seven inches below the grade of the manifold pipes or D box (for chambers). And covered with at least one foot of soil atop the trench or chamber. Trenches can be deeper, if the site dictates, but rarely more than three feet below finish grade.
If the leach field is uphill from the septic tank (or if the local health regulations simply require it) a lift station is installed in-line after the septic tank. An electric pump in the lift station tank forces effluent out to the leach field every time it fills to a certain level ("dosing"). Most ISDS codes allow field size reductions with dosing or automatic siphons, so there may be a certain advantage to installing a lift station when building on small lots and/or with nearby streams or ponds.
Never grind up (macerate) your sewage before sending to a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Pumping treated sewage (after septic tank) up to the leach field with lift station is always an option, but do not macerate (pump) effluent prior to the septic tank. The septic tank operates by digesting solids and settling sludge to the bottom and allowing grease to float to the top of the septic tank. Macerating the sewage before entering the septic tank will create a septic tank without any large solids, just a cloud of ground up sewage particles. When you send these particles out to the leach field, you are bound to eventually clog the soil with bio-mat and then the leach field fails.
Never use bleach, drain cleaner, or harsh soaps with a septic system. Bleach and detergents kill the helpful bacteria that thrives in a healthy septic tank to optimally process toilet waste. Lack of proper septic tank bacteria will cause your leach field to fail from excessive bio-mat accumulation.
Please... Never use ANY of those septic tank or leach field chemical additives and miracle enzyme cures. Supposedly breaking down fats and solids in the septic tank, in practice, these additives simply allow smaller particulates to pass through the septic filter (hopefully you have one) where they re-unite in the leach field forming a dense bio-mat. At best, they will do no harm to your septic system or the environment, just waste your money. The FDA does not approve of any of them - none of these septic cleaning and/or maintenance products have been proven effective in the long run. The deciding factor should be to ask yourself if you would like to see these additives find their way into your well water. Anything that can supposedly digest raw sewage should scare a person to have in their drinking water and thus their digestive system. A properly designed septic tank (two compartments and large enough) is going to operate just fine without of those over-hyped additives.
If your system is too large or not used enough, the septic tank can be subject to possible freezing in the winter. Steps must be taken to ensure good operation. Not pumping the tank right before winter is a good example: there is very little biological activity (bacteria consuming organics) to keep a clean sewage tank water warm. Always install waterproofing above septic tank to divert water and thus frost at least three feet away. In practice, this amounts to backfilling up to top of tank, sloping the ground away (mound) around perimeter, and then laying down a plastic tarp. If you can keep the water away from the sides of the tank, you can retain more heat in the dry ground and help speed decomposition of waste. A good tip is to set down a layer of straw before the tarp - it will cushion against rock damage and provide insulation. In extreme climates, a layer of two inch thick extruded polystyrene (EPS) foamboard insulation is recommended below the tarp.
If allowed, always divert greywater to a separate leach field (see greywater.html for details). Greywater contains soaps, which are designed to kill bacteria (clean and disinfect things). You want to encourage helpful "good" bacteria (digesting anaerobic cultures) to grow in your septic tank, not kill them with soap laden graywater. If you cannot divert all of your greywater, just diverting the washing machine discharge will make a big difference in performance and eliminate a large portion of a home's effluent, taking the load off your leach field.
A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump before enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment.
Usually less than sixteen inches - consult manufacturer of your tank.
Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: Septic Tank to catch solids and Leach Field to dispose of liquid. Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank where effluent evaporates and leaches down into surrounding soil while solids remain behind. Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
Leach Pits are large gravel filled holes, optimally with a perforated tank in center for discharging effluent.
Drywells are a passive (no pump) solution for small/odd lots where a long leach field percolation field is not possible or desired.
Leach pits take advantage of surface area around sides of the hole to dispose of large amounts of water in the right soil types.
Adding a drywell to a leach pit gives it additional capability to accept large surges at one time.
Always allow at least eight or ten feet of undisturbed soil space between pits to ensure maximum percolation and effluent treatment.
Leach Fields are trenches (or rectangular beds) dug in yard and filled with a foot of 3/4" - 1-1/2" gravel and a four inch diameter perforated pipe. The pipe-in-gravel leach line is covered with geotextile fabric (landscaping weed barrier) and then backfilled with a foot or two of native soil atop. Gravity sends effluent to leach field with at least a 1/8 inch per foot drop and then is dispersed into soil evenly with all of the leach field perforated pipe being at the same level.
Chamber Systems are a tried and true advancement in leach field design - arched panels in the trench. Effluent flows into this large open area underneath the yard; the entire bottom of a chamber is open. With no gravel inside, chambers have ample air to help keep the leach field soil aerobic and healthy.
Pressurized Mound Systems make use of an electric pump to force effluent into elevated mound 'constructed soil' systems and distant trenches, beds or chambers. Even distribution of effluent is key to smaller leach field sizing and better treatment of the waste water. Poor soil percolation sites often require pressure distribution constructed sand mounds with two inch diameter pipe drilled with 1/4 inch holes every two feet, or so.
Evapotranspiration / Drip Beds are pressurized systems with smaller holes or nozzles (drip) for even more uniform distribution of waste water, but are prone to plugging from calcification of the nozzles. In areas that do not get snow cover in the winter, long shallow trenches can be run through yard, sending waste water into the root zone near surface. The plants transpire water through growth and some water evaporates being so close to surface, with a smaller portion of effluent percolating down into water table.
Lagoons, Cesspits, and Cesspools are man-made ponds where the effluent percolates and evaporates, often assisted by a fountain or bubbler. Normally reserved for high clay soil areas where percolation is difficult, lagoons can be lined to prevent percolation in a fragile area - evaporation being the only means of disposal. Six foot fencing and a locked gate are standard practice with any lagoon or cesspool due to the legal liability from safety issues.
Constructed Water Treatment Wetlands are shallow lagoons and mainly designed in hot climates since plant life is key. Active plant growth year-round is desired for the constructed wetland plants to help dissipate the nitrogen and truly treat the effluent. Constructed wetlands show the most promise for a carefree low-maintenance treatment area, but you do generally need to live in a non-freezing climate. They are an excellent choice for greywater disposal, taking a major load off the septic tank and leach field system (blackwater only - toilets and dishwasher).
Drywell leach pit kits are $169* with free UPS Ground shipping
Great for fixing a failed leach field or adding capacity to an existing system...
Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field.
If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.
Please don't believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.
Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money.
If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide AFTER flushing the leach field lines.
Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.
Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).
Please note that 30% strength and above is DANGEROUS AND WILL BURN YOU, so DO NOT transport or use this stuff yourself.
Have the pool supply store deliver for your cleaning contractor.
HazMat Placards must be posted in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength.
Always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide, especially the first time. They locate a cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose with jetted cutting head down through the perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat and any roots OUT of the leach field. This is an important distinction - accumulated bio-mat must be flushed OUT of the leach field lines. You do not accomplish anything by allowing the bio-mat to remain in the lateral pipes (drainage lines). Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a high pressure sprayer equipped with disruptor head (full circle shower spray). This is not something you want to try to do yourself. Hire a professional to do the job. The cleanup of tools alone is nasty business.
Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no fresh air in the pipes. Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer. This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time. If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat. Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first. Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line. Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines. Do not use this hole for your drywell location... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil. Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines. Put the lines under water pressure for a few minutes, if possible. Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours, if not overnight) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect. The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture. Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore. If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later. Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen. This is a good time to remind everyone that toilet waste is hazardous septic human waste and must be approached with proper safety equipment and plenty of caution. Wear disposable protective clothes with full head/mouth covering, face shield and/or goggles, protected sleeves and gloves. In a pinch, Saran wrap can be put around arms and then securely taped to the gloves.
We do not sell hydrogen peroxide. But your local septic tank pumper-contractor can pour a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, when you are having the tank pumped. It is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field, and as with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil. "How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though. You have to examine why it failed in the first place. The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field. Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time. Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair. An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits. One drywell kit has a surge capacity of 48+ gallons... the same as almost 74 feet of perforated leach field pipe. Adding a drywell kit to the end of each lateral line of the leach field is key since it allows it to dry out between dosings. Without air in the leach field and not given opportunity to dry out between soakings, the leach field is certain to fail again. These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent. Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the serviceable life expectancy. A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you cannot have too large of a leaching pit - the more gravel the better. As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended... lack of venting at both ends of lateral lines is the ultimate cause of leach field failure (after lack of proper two compartment filtered septic tank). Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.
click here or on images for the drywell installation detail page
It is possible to install a drywell gravel-less, just using native soil for backfill if it percolates quickly,
but for best results, place at least a foot or two of gravel under and around the drywell. Six inches of gravel,
as noted above, should be considered a bare minimum only. DO NOT put gravel inside of the drywell, as that
would defeat its purpose as a surge vessel.
gravel-less Drywell with complete installation kit is $169* delivered...
* FREE sanitary tee curved inlet 4" diameter S/D sewer drain pipe 3-way T fitting brings liquid in through top center knockout on drywell lid
* FREE vent grate is a green, slotted plastic, four inch drain with riser and coupler fittings to vent your leach pit... which is very IMPORTANT
* FREE geotextile fabric lays atop leach pit gravel, before backfilling with final soil, to prevent dirt and root intrusion - 24 square foot (3' by 8')
* FREE Shipping UPS Ground to 48 states - we do not ship to APO, US Mail Box, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Isles, Mexico or Canada
Drywell kit with lid
extra set of 3 side panels
optional surface drain
optional bottom panel
we keep drywell parts and fabric in stock for quick shipment by the next business day
Geotextile fabric - professional duty 35 mil 5 ounce sq/yd for leach pits and percolation fields...
Never install plastic 'visquene' sheeting or cheap non-woven 'weed barrier' landscaping fabric in place of professional grade heavy-duty woven geotextile fabric for septic system leach fields, drywell pits, French drains, or soil stabilization in foundation drainage projects. Besides longevity, the problem with using visquene plastic sheeting or cheap weed barrier non-woven materials, is they suffocate the soil, ultimately causing anaerobic soil conditions, biomat formation, root rot, and molding issues. Plastic sheeting becomes brittle and tears within a few years and the adhesive bond holding non-woven weed-barrier fabric together eventually decomposes, slipping, ripping and tearing, and allowing sand and soil to migrate into the gravel drainage layer of leach field or French drain. Invest in our professional grade woven geotextile fabric with a full 35 mil thickness and extra heavy-duty five ounce per square yard weight. Built for a lifetime of service, this is one of the only 'hydrophilic treated' materials on the market, with needle punched, multi-layer woven design technology that lets air, water, and nutrients through, but keeps the soil out. Hydrophilic fabrics are critical in septic and greywater leach fields where oxygen penetrating into the soil is vital for long-term performance and protection against soil percolation failure. Unlike most fabrics, it features a very functional 'fuzzy' side that lays down against the soil to prevent slippage, making it very easy to install on sloped ground. The shiny smooth side has printed stripes every foot on center, full-length, for gauging trench elevations, rock fill levels, or lining up plants. This professional grade geotextile fabric has proven itself over time to be a superior performer, as compared to other '20+ year landscaping fabrics'.
The primary place for geotextile fabric is above the gravel layer of your leach field lines, French drain, or drywell leach pit.
Additionally, one can line the outside walls/sides of the excavated leach pit or drain lines to keep soil from migrating into the gravel from sides.
This sidewall protection is always recommended when soils are loose or sandy and would otherwise tend to wash soil into the gravel.
Geotextile fabric is also used for wrapping perforated pipe-in-gravel French drains, as pictured at right, with fabric on the bottom of trench too.
French drains are wrapped like a burrito, unlike septic leach field lines where the fabric is on the top and sides only.
Protecting your leach pit and perforated pipe gravel from soil and root infiltration is crucial to long-term soil percolation and preventing leach field failure.
3 foot, 4 foot, 5 foot, and 6 foot wide professional-duty geotextile fabric
pre-cut rolls of 30 foot, 60 foot, 120 foot (see below for full 250 foot rolls)
Professional strength, heavy-duty woven 35 mil thick geotextile fabric is hydrophilic treated to
allow air, water, and nutrients through its needle punched, multi-layer technology for a lifetime of service.
FREE UPS Ground Shipping with no delivery to APO/FPO, mail boxes, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US VI, Mexico or Canada
3 foot wide
4 foot wide
5 foot wide
6 foot wide
250 foot long full rolls of professional-duty geotextile fabric
FREE UPS Ground Shipping with no delivery to APO/FPO, mail boxes, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US VI, Mexico or Canada
250 foot long full rolls
$170 - 3 foot by 250' roll
Settling basin for use with septic filter to trap sediment in-line after septic tank...
Nothing beats the protection of a nice settling tank with filter, in-line before the leach field.
This durable, buried 'vault' is just the right size for any family and has long been a standard part of every system we sell.
Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) settles to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top.
A priceless tip with any septic or greywater system is to avoid bar soaps, natural or otherwise, since they are often made from refined chicken fat.
Liquid soaps are always advised and avoid bleach and borax for better septic tank health and function.
Passive, non-electric with no moving parts so as septic effluent flows in, clarified liquid automatically flows out to the leach field.
Preserve and protect your septic system leach field longevity by preventing bio-mat formation.
Septic leach fields fail when poor septic tank design allows drain lines (laterals) to clog with sediment "biomat forming".
Greatly increase the life expectancy any sewage disposal system with a filter to prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from entering and eventually clogging your leach field.
Our fitting and filter kit can convert nearly any water tank (barrel, vault, septic, or cistern) into a functional filter basin.
Sieve filters extend beneath the scum layer (fats floating on top of tank water), siphoning relatively clear effluent from the middle.
External-to-internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap design prevents gas-borne solids (tiny particles) from floating atop gas bubbles and exiting.
Click here or on pictures for the settling basin and septic filter detail page.
Our septic filter has 80 lineal feet of filtration area for up to 800 gallons per day treatment volume. A built-in gas deflector on bottom of filter provides secondary 1/2 inch filtration to prevent larger solids from entering the filter area inside. The patented flow reduces the trapping of solids in the filter by allowing solids to slough off and fall back into the tank for further digestion. 1/16 inch filtration slots, rather than mesh screens, provide much less surface area for solids to attach and promote the sloughing action. Filters feature a locking tab that securely locks the filter into its housing tee, preventing any chance of 'floating' by the filter and allowing solids to pass by. This design has served our clients well for over twenty years with nothing but positive feedback and great results. Very easy to clean when you inspect the septic tank and never needs replacing.
inlet hole & fittings are not pictured above
* FREE Shipping via UPS Ground to 48 states - we do not ship to APO, US Mail Box, Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Isles, Mexico or Canada.
Septic Basin Settling Tank Kit (no filter) is $460*
12 inch Riser Extension for Settling Tank adds $105*
18 inch Riser Extension for Settling Tank adds $150*
Septic Filter with Housing and Handle Kit is $69*
Septic Tank or Settling Basin Fitting AND Filter Kit $160*
This 10 piece hole saw kit is included for free with our tank fitting and filter kit above for $160*. Every installation tends to be unique, so this free hole saw kit allows you to put the inlet, outlet, and inspection holes right where you need them. A nice touch that we continue to include for no extra charge with every tank fitting and filter kit. Trying to cut a round hole by hand or with a jigsaw can be a challenge, at best... risking ruin of the tank
Click here for the settling basin and septic filter detail page
Place settling tank within 5 to 10 feet of foundation and disperse septic water at least 20 feet away from the home.
One of the keys to a quality gravity distribution system is the injection molded PVC flow director. Even distribution is VERY important, so don't trust old-fashioned distribution boxes (D Boxes) which are notoriously unreliable. Even a minor amount of settling will drastically affect a D box's even distribution. One of the most common mistakes with septic systems is relying upon simple Tees or Double Ells to properly distribute your effluent. Eventual settling and leveling errors as little as 1/8 of inch result in enormous differences in effluent distribution with TEEs and ELLs (manifolds) and D boxes. The trick to septic leach field longevity is good soil health. Designing a system that allows you to switch (every few months) from one leach field to another allows one field to dry out between watering cycles and regain its health by opening soil pores to air. Leaving a leach field sodden constantly creates a septic 'bio-mat' in the lateral line trench that eventually causes a system to stop percolating and fail. This director/diverter valve (flow director) allows you to split septic effluent exactly 50/50 or divert all to one side or the other. Laboratory tests have shown that even at a 1/8 inch tilt, these Flow Director Valves still deliver relatively equal 50/50 flow (+/- 1.3%). New stepped hub design (not shown) allows use of either Sch40 or SDR35 four inch PVC pipe. Material is injection molded PVC plastic and while not rated Sch40 or SDR35 since it is not a pressure fitting, the thickness is nearly that of Sch40. Director valve kit ships complete with threaded access cap, coupler for riser pipe, and flow adjustment handle. Please note that there is a 2-1/4 inch elevation drop between inlet pipe and outlet pipes on this director valve, so these may not work for a remodel where limited slope is available. Your effluent lines need to drop at least 1/8 inch per foot between tank and leach field.
Colorado Only - Infiltrator® plastic septic tank kits complete with consultation...
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system! Plastic septic tanks never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people, saving money on heavy equipment. Our Infiltrator injection molded poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease and these heavy-duty septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried dry up to four feet underground. Click here or on the picture below for specifications and pricing on our professional-preferred septic tanks. Installation is relatively straight-forward, but even seasoned professionals can get too mired in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach any project. We are here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly. Please note that we are not Infiltrator®, the manufacturer, and we do not ship their plastic septic tanks or chamber leach field systems outside the state of Colorado. Infiltrator chambers and plastic septic tanks are only delivered within about 50 mile radius of Denver (North to Loveland, South to Castle Rock, up to Georgetown, and out East to Byers) or provided will-call, pickup in person at the Denver area warehouse. Motor freight for such large items has become so expensive we no longer quote out-of-state shipments of septic tanks.
Click here for Infiltrator IM series pricing and brochures, manuals, design tips, and specification sheets for models IM-540, IM-1060 & IM-1530.
Heavy duty, two compartment, injection molded Infiltrator septic tanks can handle dry burial (empty of water) up to 4 foot deep for ease of installation.
Colorado Only - Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems complete with consultation...
The septic system's leach field is seldom given the attention it so richly deserves.
Most people don't understand that perforated pipe in a gravel bed is NOT the best choice for a long-lasting, durable septic system.
Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems are far superior to pipe-in-gravel in every aspect: smaller leach field size due to optimal percolation, increased retention capability for heavy loading days, root infiltration protection for long term viability, resistance to traffic, and more.
You don't need to hire an engineer to design your septic system in most counties (we do not supply engineering services).
Local regulatory officials normally allow you to submit a site plan and pull your installation permits as the homeowner-builder as long as the soil percolates well.
Then you can save even more money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
Installation is relatively straight-forward, but even seasoned professionals can get too mired in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach any project.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not venting your leach field properly or not scarifying the base of your trenches.
We encourage clients to mail copies of their septic system permit plans for our review after purchasing a system, as there are always details that could use improvement with any plan.
Please note that we are not Infiltrator®, the manufacturer, and we do not ship their chamber leach field systems outside the state of Colorado. Infiltrator chambers are only delivered within about 50 mile radius of Denver (North to Loveland, South to Castle Rock, up to Georgetown, and out East to Byers) or provided will-call, pickup in person at the Denver area warehouse. Motor freight for such large items has become so expensive, at well over $300 per pallet, that we no longer quote out-of-state shipments of chambers. For local distributor referral outside of Colorado, please contact the manufacturer direct at: InfiltratorSystems.com e-mail: email@example.com or phone: 800-221-4436. Standard Quick4 Infiltrator chambers are 34 inch wide (3 foot trench) by one foot tall by four foot long (net length after connecting together) and cost $33 each, $31 each for 50 or more, and $29 each for a full pallet load of 85 chambers or more. Rows of Infiltrator are generally limited to 12 or 13 chambers (about 50 foot length) requiring two $18 end caps for each row. Please e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org with a cut-list for your project to get a personal quote. In addition to your parts list, please provide the drop site location and we can confirm if free delivery is available in your area.
Click here or on pictures for Infiltrator chamber system installation details, tips & tricks
Infiltrator standard Quick4 cut sheet and their YouTube video Quick4 installation
Infiltrator septic tank installation and TheNaturalHome.com main septic system chapter
click here or on any picture for Infiltrator chamber leach field installation details
Theoretically, over ninety percent of the solid waste entering your septic tank is broken down by anaerobic bacteria. The remaining sludge builds up until you pay to have it pumped out. If your septic tank is not pumped regularly, solid waste eventually overflows into the leach field where the soil clogs, your field "fails" and has to be replaced, which is a very messy and costly affair. By the way, don't believe those advertisements you see for "digesters" which are supposed to "save" your leach field and "clean" up your septic tank. A healthy, well-designed system works without any assistance. An unhealthy, ill-designed septic system is going to fail regardless of how much digester you flush down the toilet. Plus, who knows what these "natural" digester enzymes are going to do to your water quality. That's why we don't sell them! By far, the best thing you can do for your leach field health and longevity, is to properly vent. Both ends of each finger/row of chambers should be vented by bringing an inspection port to the surface and drilling numerous 1/16 inch diameter holes. By allowing fresh air to draft through the chambers, aerobic bacterium thrive and compost particulates. The soil underneath never goes sour and bio-mat formation is greatly reduced.
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